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OF THE. 



Human Fora\ 



A SCIENTIFIC TREATISE ON PROPORTIONS AS THEY APPLY 
TO GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 



HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS REDUCED TO RULES 
APPLICABLE TO PRACTICE 



By JNO. A. CARLSTROM 

Instructor in The " Mitchell " School ol Garment Cutting 



PUBLISHERS : 

THE JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 

New York 

1905 



LIBRARY or . 


ONGKt'SS 


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CLASS «, AAc. Nw 


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COPYRIGHT 1905. 

The JNO. J. MITCHELL CO. 
NEW YORK. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



INDEX TX) SUBJECTS. 



PART !. 

PAGE 

Preface 7 

Introduction 9 

The Uses of Proportions 10 

Average Proportions 11 

The Foundation 14 

The Principle 15 

Heights and Widths 16 

A Combination of Numbers; 18 

Waist Quantities •. 22 

The Four-Inch Difference 26 

Combination Waist Sizes 26 

Easy Waist Sizes 26 

Weight of the Human Body 29 

Elements of Short Measures by Heights and Widths 34 

The Depth of Scye 34 

The Blade 36 

The Front-Shoulder 36 

The Over-Shoulder 38 

Elements of Short Measures by Widths Only 38 

The Depth of Scye 38 

The Blade 40 

The Front-Shoulder 40 

The Over-Shoulder 42 

Additions to Short Measures for Overcoats 44 

Short Measures for Overcoats 46 

The Depth of Scye 46 

The Blade Measure 48 

The Front-Shoulder Measure 48 

The Over-Shoulder Measure 50 

The Elements of Long Measures by Heights and Widths 52 

The Upper-Shoulder Measure 52 

The Lovver-Shoulder Measure 54 

Long Measures for Overcoats 56 

The Upper-Shoulder Measure 56 

The Lower-Shoulder Measure 56 

Proportionate Division of Widths 58 

Anatomical Division of Heights 60 

The Octaval Division : . . . . 61 

Anatomical Figures 62 

The I llustration Applied 64 

The Working Table for Averages 68 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



PAGE 

The Corpulent Type 70 

The Working Table for Corpulents 72 

The Slender Form 76 

The Working Table for Slender Forms 78 

Sleeves 81 

Normal 82 

Corpulent 84 

Slender 84 

Forearm Lengths of Sleeves 86 

Normal 86 

Corpulent 86 

Slender 86 

Vest Lengths and Openings 88 

Normal 88 

Corpulent no 

Slender no 

Trousers 02 

Normal 04 

Corpulent 08 

Slender IOO 

Breeches I02 

Ready Reference Tables 104 

Waist Sizes lo , 

Scye Depths io 6 

Front-Shoulder I0 g 

Over-Shoulder x IO 

Upper-Shoulder ll2 

Underarm Lengths ll . 

Vest Lengths l x 5 

Inseams and Waist Rises 1 18 

A Basis for Lengths of Coats j 20 

Lengths for Averages 12Q 

Lengths for Corpulents ' ' I22 

Lengths for Slender Forms j " 2 , 

Working Table Without Additions I2 6 

Types of Forms I2 g 

Application in Practice ; x -, ., 

Ready Reference Rules I3 8 ( I39 and I4Q 

I he Scales Jy T , ' 

141 

142 



n c . . 141 

Confirmatory Investigations 

PART II. 

Proportions for Boys I4 , Id( 

The Explanations f 

Boys' Trousers ^ 

Boys' Breeches I ^ 

J 150 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



o 



PART III. PAGE 

Women's Proportions 1 54 

Explanations 156 

Proportions for Girls 158 

Sleeve Lengths for Women 1 60 

Sleeve Lengths for Girls 162 

INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



The Octaval Division. 

The Average Form 63 

The Corpulent Form 71 

The Slender Form jj 

Types of Forms. 

Sloping 129 

Square 1 30 

Erect, Normal and Stooping 131 

INDEX TO TABLES. 



TABLE PART I. 

>• The Principle 15 

3) r 17 

4 J- Heights and Widths -I 19 

5) 

6~) 



21 

I 27 
27 



L V Waist Ouantities ■ 

8 f ~ 

9 J I 27 
Weight of the Human Body 31 

o r 35 

- Elements of Short Measures by Heights and Widths -J ■ i/ 

1 37 

I 39 

5] f 39 

-Short Measures by Widths Only ~! 4I 

8J I 43 

y >■ Additions for Overcoats 45 

r 47 

, >- Short M easures for Overcoats -■ 

23 ^ 49 

24j I 51 



3 
4. 



6 ! 

7 



21 
22 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



TABLE PAGE 

~5 (- Elements of Lone Measures. 



J I 55 

o J- Long Measures for Overcoats 57 

29 Division of Widths : 59 

30 Division of Heights 65 

3 1 ^| ( Averages 69 

32 \- Working Tables ■< Corpulent 73 

3o) (Slender 79 

34l pi f 83 

35 V Sleeves, Outside Measures ^ 85 

36J L 85 

38 Y Sleeves, Forearm Lengths ' 87 

39 J 

4° "1 f Average 89 

41 J- Vest Lengths -\ Corpulent 9 i 

4 2 J [ Slender 91 

43 "I f Average 95 

44 j^Trousers -{ Corpulent 99 

45 J ^Slender 101 

46 Breeches IO , 

47 1 f Waist Sizes. 



105 

48 Scye Depths 107 

49 Front-Shoulders 109 

5° ^ Ready Reference Tables , Over-Shoulders in 

5 1 U pper-Shoulders 113 

5 2 Underarm Lengths 115 

53 Vest Lengths 117 

54 J ^Inseams and Waist Rises 119 

55 1 f Average 121 

56 y Bases for Lengths of Garments . . . ^ Corpulent r 23 

57 J (^Slender ^5 

58 Working Table (no additions) 12 y 

Boys' Proportions. PART II. 

59 General Proportions .- I , 7 

60 Boys' Trousers " ^q 

61 Boys' Breeches ^ 



Women's Proportions. ART III. 

62 Proportions for Women's Garments. . . 

6 3 " " Giris ;;; -■ 

64 Sleeve Lengths for Women T ft 



157 



65 " " " Girls. 



161 
162 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



PREFACE. 



COME years ago the author became convinced that a book on practical propor- 
tions in their relation to garment cutting would prove a work of decided 
interest and value to those engaged in garment construction in this and other 
countries. 

Accordingly, he began the collection of data which his own experience in the 
trade for a quarter of a century led him to believe would properly cover the 
ground necessary for a work of this kind. The result, which is before the 
reader, is a compendium of facts concerning the subject that the author believes 
to be unique in the literature of the trade. 

That the work is absolutely perfect is not asserted ; but that every care 
has been taken in making it to put forth its story in simple, plain and helpful 
form is a fact which, it is hoped, will be patent to every reader. It is also 
hoped that the information it gives will prove as valuable to the student as it 
has been to 

The Author. 



New York, 1905. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



INTRODUCTION. 



THE value of a treatise of the kind that follows this chapter will undoubt- 
edly be estimated variously by different classes in the trade ; some 
will extend it a hearty welcome as " filling a long felt want," while others will 
view it with indifference. As its purpose is not to make converts, the author 
will have no quarrel with those who may consider it unsuited to their needs. 

It is expected that the contents and the scope ot a work of this kind will 
be looked upon differently by readers holding different trade ideals. The 
"Scientific" school, who incline to the belief that the art of garment cutting 
will ultimately become an exact science through some discovery equaling the 
ancient alchemists' supposed secrets, which will turn the baser metal of tailoring 
into gold, may grasp at this volume as a step in that direction. On the other 
hand, the "Artistic" school, who believe that inspiration will soar most read- 
ily when unhampered by rules and methods, will naturally look upon this 
effort as a waste of time. 

The fact is, it is not suited to either school. Its aim is to interest the 
real student, the one who neither expects miracles nor takes chances on 
unsystematic knowledge, but expects results in return from any knowledge 
gained. He combines the scientific and artistic elements enough to make a 
happy medium. He belongs to the class that recognizes that the scientific or the 
mechanical and the esthetic or artistic are not antagonistic, but complementary 
to each other in well-cut garments. 

Cutters of all schools will find in these pages, if they will consult them 
without prejudice, many rules and tables of proportions and variations which, 
if mixed with common sense and a due regard for their adaptation to individual 
needs, will simplify many problems that would otherwise be, at least, irksome, 
even though not impossible of solution. The rules and tables, when properly 
understood, are nothing if not practical, and their virtues have been tested by 
long and varied application in practice, as well as by elaborate experiments. 
Special pains have been taken to make them clear and easy of comprehension 
and no effort has been made to have them appear " learned " at the expense 
of intelligibility and the patience of the reader. True science abhors mystery 
and mysticism, particularly when the nature of the subject calls for clear and 
simple statements. 

Viewed in this light, and considering the vastness of the field open to 
research along this line, the work will undoubtedly prove of great utility and 
be worthy of a permanent place in the library of any up-to-date cutter. 



10 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE USES OF PROPORTIONS. 



jyiANY will ask: "What need have I of proportions? I measure my 
client and apply the measures just as I take them. If his waist length is 
short, I apply it short, and vice versa." The reply must be the same as when 
the utility test is applied to any form of knowledge. You deal with proportions 
every time you put your tape around a client. You apply proportions, rightly or 
wrongly, every time your measures are put on paper in the production of a draft. 

Proportions will solve the problem if a customer, for whom you have cut gar- 
ments regularly, should change in size and you had no opportunity to remeasure 
him.' 

Proportions will check measures of which you have doubt, and will supply 
them, should they be overlooked in measuring. 

Proportions will determine the length of garments when fashion changes. 

Proportions must be understood when a set of patterns are being prepared. 

Proportions are a material aid in cutting for out-of-town trade. 

Proportions will aid those who produce garments on general lines. 

An understanding of proportions will give you more confidence in yourself, 
furnish you a basis to figure from, and when carefully studied will materially aid 
in broadening you intellectually. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 11 



AVERAGE PROPORTIONS. 



TO the pioneers in proportions who have partly blazed a way into the deep 
forest, I extend my respect, even though they did not thoroughly clear and 
make tillable the soil. Dr. Wampen, the only one whose work stands out as a classic 
of tailoring literature, treats of the ideal subject rather than the average, with 
which tailoring usually deals, as exemplified in his 36-inch-breast and 64-inch- 
height model man. Beyond this, the average text book on anatomy is more easily 
understood by laymen than is Dr. Wampen's. Still Dr. Wampen's researches in 
proportions remain the deepest, widest and broadest, a reservoir that subsequent 
writers have drawn upon. 

Other authorities on general tailoring are authorities on most all phases 
except that of proportions, and their knowledge of proportions is usually confined 
to the working of a system of cutting. Under these circumstances, the researches 
of the author of this work have been used as a working foundation. They are 
based upon the actual measurements of some three thousand people from all 
parts of this country, with a liberal sprinkling of others from other parts of the 
world. 

The principles herein presented are so arranged that they are not an 
appendix to any system, but abstract principles, applicable to any system that 
is laid down on right lines. 



PART I. 



MEN'S PROPORTIONS 



14 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE FOUNDATION. 



A 



FTER the measurements gathered had been simmered down, by finding the 
percentage of each class, one group of two hundred (which may be used as 
representative) showed the following number of persons to each height from 5 
feet 4 inches up to 6 feet : 





5 ft. 4 in. 


5 ft. 5 in. 


5 ft. 6 in. 


5 ft. 7 in. 


5 ft. 8 in. 


5 ft. g in. 


5 ft. 10 in. 


5 ft. 11 in. 


6 ft. 






Relative number 
of persons to > 14 
each heighc. 


19 


26 


28 


29 


27 


23 


18 


16 



This places the 5-foot-8-inch man in the center with the greatest number of 
persons to his credit, and that height may be taken as a safe average — and we 
are seeking the average rather than the ideal height. 

Having decided on the average height, we next seek the average width 
corresponding. 

We proceed as follows : 

Reduce the height, 5 feet 8 inches, to inches, or 5 feet of 12 inches each, 
which is equal to 60 inches and 8 inches additional, making a total of 68 inches. 
One-half of this amount is 34 inches. Take the first unit of this number (or the 
first figure to the right) and add it to 34 (4 plus 34) : the sum will be 38 inches, 
which is the average breast size. 

This result, which is first given here theoretically, is the rule that was made 
after the 38-breast size was found to be the average by the same test as that 
by which the average height was determined ; namely, an average gained by 
actual measures. While the reason given is sufficient to establish the 38 breast as 
the average, there are other reasons as well. 38 is the middle quantity of the 
recognized " Men's sizes," from 33 to 43, both inclusive, for below 38 we have 
five sizes, viz., 37, 36, 35, 34 and t,t„ and above 38 we have also five sizes, viz., 
39, 40, 41, 42 and 43. Above these we have the extremes of the corpulent and 
the excessively corpulent, and below them the other extremes of youths' and 
children's sizes. 

Hence, we accept the above as the basis to work upon, as it seems to answer 
all requirements, both theoretical and practical, and though we have diverged 
from all known standards in making the 5 feet 8 inch man of 38 breast the 
average, we at least make it plain that we are not copyists. 



CARLSTROM'S proportions. 



15 



THE PRINCIPLE. 



TABLE 1 



fMVES in tabulated form the result of the preceding deduction. 



Height in feet and inches. 



5 ft. 
JUL 



Height in inches. 



68 



in 



Half height in inches. 



34 



in 



The first unit of the above line. 



Breast, by adding the above two lines. 



4m 
3 8 in 



The breast size can also be gained, when height and width are proportionate 
to each other, by deducting 30 inches from the height, as shown by 



TABLE 2. 



Height in inches. 



For ideal proportion reduce. 



The remainder. 



fi8jn 



30 



m 



38 in 



15 the breast' 



srje 



By reversing the above rule and adding 30 inches to the breast size, the pro- 
portionate height will be found. 

The above tables are the key by which heights and widths proportionate to each 
other may be gained. 



16 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



TABLE 3 

/-IVES a range of heights and widths from 5 feet up to 6 feet 8 inches of the 
U former and from 30 to 50 inches of the latter, which have been gamed in the 

following manner : 

Line 1 gives the number of columns each way from the column of averages, 
which we will hereafter call the ■' Checking Column," and which is marked zero 

(6) in this table. . . . . 

Line 2 gives the heights in feet and inches, which are given progressive y in 
this table all the way up to 6 feet 3 inches. For a working table this will no 
hold good. A man would certainly be nearer proportionate if he gained in height 
when he increased in width, as per this table, but as an adult may gam in girth at 
any time and not increase in height after a certain age, we are brought face to 
face with another problem. Later, we shall give consideration to the way a man 
does develop, instead of the way he should develop. 

Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 5, the first units and fractions of Line 4 as explained in Table 1. 

Line 6 gives the sums gained by adding Lines 4 and 5 and are the widths, or 
breast sizes, corresponding to the heights in Lines 2 and 3. The increasing 
heights in this table maintain a certain relation to the increasing widths and will 
therefore be referred to as "ideal heights ' hereafter. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



17 



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18 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



A COMBINATION OF NUMBERS. 



DY examining Table 3 we find in the sizes up to 40 breast that the inches in 
Line 2 and the figure to the right in Lines 3 and 6 are identical. 
This has prompted 

TABLE 4 

to illustrate, perhaps, a coincidence, but one with a suggestion on relative 
proportion. 

Line 1, the breast sizes. 

Line 2. The figure to the left in Line 1, always 3 in the sizes from 30 to 
39, inclusive, is placed in this line directly under itself. 

Above 40 breast, continue the figure 3 in Line 2, instead of increasing it to 
4 to correspond to the figure 40. 

. Line 3. The figure 3 of Line 2 added to the 3 of Line 1 (making 6 in each 
instance) and moving the unit (figure to the right) of Line 1 down to the right of 
the 6, in Line 3, gives the corresponding height in inches to the original quanti- 
ties in Line 1. 

Line 4. Now in turn move the second figure of Line 3 down and you have 
the number of inches above the 5 foot height corresponding to the breast size 
in Line 1. But in and after the 40-column above the 6 feet this would give 
the number of inches above 5 feet continuously, if we moved the first unit down 
as below 40 and placed the first figure from the left to the resultant 10 inches, or 
figure 1 in front, or to the left of the figure just moved down. 

Line 5. Should we wish to gain the number of inches direct and in progres- 
sion above the 6 feet height we deduct 2 inches from the second figure, and 

Line 6 will give the result. 

This table need not take much of the student's time, as it does not involve 
any vital principle. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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20 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



TABLE 5. 

'THIS table gives the same result as Table 3, but in the manner demonstrated 
in Table 2. 

Line 1 gives the height in feet and inches, and it will be noticed that the 
height after the 6 foot-column decreases instead of increases, which is in accord- 
ance with the manner in which the average man develops. Those who are 
more than 6 feet in height belong to another class than the one we are now 
approaching, and that class will be dealt with later in its regular order. 

Line 2, the height reduced to inches. 

Line 3, a stationary amount of 30 inches up to the point where the heights 
turn, or up to and including the 6-foot height. Above the 6-foot height, this 
quantity reduces 1^ inch for each height column. This is done in order to 
maintain the width quantities, or breast sizes, progressively, as the widths do 
not decrease with the heights. 

Line 4, the resultant widths, or breast sizes, by deducting the amounts in Line 
3 from those of Line 2. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



21 



» 



*J 






f 
H 






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22 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



WAIST QUANTITIES. 



I 



N the previous tables we have laid the foundations for heights and the primary 
widths, or breast sizes. 
Now we face the problem of how to gain the waist quantities as they usually 
run. The heights used after the '6-foot column are decreasing, as per fable 5, 
giving only 5 feet 8 inches for a 50 breast. While no rule can be laid down that 
will apply equally to all cases, as every man is a law unto himself, it can readily be 
seen that the heights employed are those of averages, and that they approximate 
more closely to the general run of people than if the heights continued in the 
more ideal, but less practical, manner as per Table 3. 

The small percentage of men who grow very tall in their youth and take on 
a proportionate amount of flesh as they advance in years form a class by them- 
selves. Every cutter knows the difficulty he has in keeping his height quantities 
down (such as the height at the neck) for men of large girth and short stature. 

TABLE 6. 

Lines 1, 2 and 3 are the same as in Table 3, except that the heights decrease 
after the 6-foot height as explained. 

Line 4 indicates in inches how much the heights fall short of the ideal 
heights given in Table 3, viz., 12 inches for a 50-inch breast. The indicators are 
gained as follows : Take the difference between the greatest height (which is 
in column 4 to the right of the Checking Column) and the height in the column 
of the breast size dealt with. For example, 50 breast and 5 feet 8-inches height 
is a difference of 4 inches (6 feet being equal to 5 feet 12 inches; 5 feet 8 is 4 
inches less). Multiply this difference (4 inches) by 3, making 12 inches in all. 
Place this 12 inches under 5 feet 8 inch height as shown. The figures to the left 
of it are gained in the same manner. 

Line 5, the half-heights in inches. Above the 6-foot height the half-heights 
are half of the combined quantities of Lines 3 and 4. 

Line 6, the first units of figures in Line 5 as explained for Tables 1, 2 and 3. 

Line 7, the breast sizes are gained by adding Lines 5 and 6. The foregoing 
is explained in previous tables. 

Line 8, the waist sizes are gained by checking each size by the average 
height and width column, marked (cypher), as follows : 

For the Checking Column itself the half-height, or 34 inches, is the waist 
size corresponding to the 38-inch breast. 

To gain the increase in the larger sizes, the waist quantity after the Check- 
ing Column is gained as follows: 

Take the difference between the ideal height (or the height corresponding to 
the breast sizes if its heights continue to increase above the 6-foot height as they 
do below it) and the checking height, and to the amount thus gained add half of 
its own quantity. Then add the total to the half height of the Checking Column. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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24 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



The result will be the waist size corresponding to the height and breast size dealt 

with. 

Example :— To find the waist for a 48 breast, note the figure in the top line 
of the column in which 48 breast is located. In this case 10 is the figure in the 
top line and it represents the difference between the Checking Column height 
and the height that would correspond to the height of the column in which the 
breast size is found, if the height continued to increase in the same ratio after 
the 6-foot height as it does before it. 

Take the 10 inches (in this case) and one half of its own amount, or 5 inches, 
making 15 inches in all. Add the 15 inches gained to the half-height of the 
Checking Column. The half height, 34 inches, gives plus 15 inches, the waist 
size for the 48 breast, viz., 49 inches. 

Again take a 40 breast. The figure in the top line of this column is 2. One- 
half of 2 is 1, making 3 the total. Add this 3 to the half-checking height, or 34 
plus 3, and you have 2,7 waist for a 40 breast. 

By the above method we have used one and one-half of the difference 
between the ideal and the checking height. This has given us an increase of i£ 
inch waist to each breast size after the Checking Column, as may be noted in the 
accompanying table. 

The decrease of the waist sizes before the Checking Column must be relatively 
less than the increase that follows; in fact, just one-half the amount, or f inch to 
each size. 

This is gained in the least complicated manner by proceeding as before, that 
is, by finding the difference between the ideal and the checking height, then adding 
to this difference one-half of its own amount, but taking only one half of the 
total gained for the waist sizes before the Checking Column. 

Example : — To find the waist size for a 34 breast, find the figure in the top 
line of the column in which the breast size is located It is, in this case, figure 4, 
and represents the difference between the ideal height, corresponding to the breast 
and the checking height. Take this difference (4 inches) and add one-half (or 

2 inches) of its own value to itself, making a total of 6 inches. So far we have 
proceeded exactly as we did in the sizes after the Checking Column ; but for 
sizes before the Checking Column only one-half of this amount, or 3 inches, is used, 
which is deducted (instead of added) from the half of the checking height. The 

3 inches gained in this case, when deducted from 34 inches, leaves 31 inches for a 
34 breast. 

Another example : — Take a 32 breast. The figure at the top is 6, one-half of 
which is 3, making 9 altogether. One-half of 9 is 4^ inches. Deduct this from 
34, or from the half of the checking height, and 29^ remains, which is the waist 
size for a 32 breast. 

This gives relatively less decreasing waist sizes as the height and breast 
decreases, which is perfectly in keeping with form development for this class. 
Other types will be taken up later in their regular order. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 25 

When the width is after and the height before the Checking Column, as, for 
instance, 44 breast and 5 feet 6 inches height, add the numbers in the top line of 
both height and width, as 2 and 6 in this case, making 8, and add the half of the 
total value to itself, making 12, and add this to the waist of the lesser height, or 
to 2> 2 h m this case, making a total of 44^ waist for a man of 44 breast and 5 feet 
6 inches tall. 

Line 9 gives a ready quantity that may be used to gain average waist sizes, by 
deducting the amounts in this line from the half heights before the Checking 
Column and adding to the half height the quantity in Line 9 after the Checking 
Column. 



26 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

THE FOUR-INCH DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BREAST 

AND WAIST. 



lyiANY have been taught, and persist in believing, that the average is only- 
expressed by a 4-inch difference between the breast and the waist quan- 
tities. We have given consideration to the advocates of this method and give in 
the next table a rule whereby the 4-inch difference may be observed up to any 
point deemed desirable. In this table we have held it up to the Checking Column 
and from there up we have used the same method as explained for Table 6. 

TABLE 7. 

THE easiest way to hold the 4-inch difference is to find the quantity in the top 
line and deduct it from the half-height of the Checking Column. If you 
wish tc continue it after the Checking Column, add the quantity in the top line 
to the half-height of the Checking Column. 

Line 1, the number of columns each way from the Checking Column- 

Line 2, the breast sizes according to the heights in Table 6. 

Line 3, the waist sizes by the method just explained. 

Example: — 33 breast. The figure in the top line is 5. Take this quantity 
without any additions or reductions and deduct from 34, the half-height of the 
Checking Column, making 29 waist for 33 breast. 



COMBINATION WAIST SIZES. 



TABLE 8. 

IN this table is given the 4-inch difference in the intermediate sizes, while the 
larger as well as the smaller sizes are given as in Table 6. 
Variations to suit trade or personal ideas can easily be made from this. 



EASY WAIST SIZES. 



M 



TABLE 9. 

I ANY cutters who design sets of patterns prefer to have the waist sizes run 
large rather than small. This table may be used to advantage when this 
effect is desired. 

Above 40 and below 33 breast, the waist sizes have been gained as in Table 
6. The intervening sizes have been gained by adding \ inch to the waist of the 
34 breast size, and the same amount to the waist for the 40 breast size, and hold- 
ing the rest at the even numbers. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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This Book is not the entire distance 
to knowing how. It's only a stepping 
stone. Keep right on stepping . .' . 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 29 

THE WEIGHT OF THE HUMAN BODY AND ITS RELA- 
TION TO HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



IN touching upon the subject of weights, I am, perhaps, inviting much criticism, 
not because weight is not governed by laws, but for the reason that the 
method of deriving a conclusion from the combination of the height and width is 
too subtle to give the same results, unless all conditions are equal. For instance, 
the weight of different people varies, even when they are of equal height and cir- 
cumference. The solid or muscular man no doubt weighs more to the square 
inch than does the soft or flabby individual. The athlete of a given height and 
body measure would weigh more than would one of the same dimensions who had 
never done anything to harden his muscles. 

The man in perfect health weighs more than he would a few days later after 
some illness had attacked him, without any apparent loss to circumference and of 
course none to height. 

Then again, if a man were measured by ten other men for the purpose of 
ascertaining his weight, there would be ten results, all differing in some respects, 
which would give ten bases to work from and ten ultimate, different results, 
whereas only one could be right. This suggests that many who will test the rule 
given in this connection on a standard scale will find a discrepancy, regardless 
of whether the basis has been gained faultily, or the composition of the molecules 
that constitute the weight are more solid or more flabby than normal, or whether 
the weight of the garments worn is extreme ; the verdict most easily rendered is 
an unfavorable one. 

Even when allowances are made for ordinary divergences, the author has 
met exceptions in his experiments that seemed to defy all rules. 

The percentages below speak for themselves. 

Out of a representative group of a hundred men measured and weighed, only 
25$ varied more than 10 pounds from average weights in Table 10 below ; 25$ 
varied less than ten pounds and more than 5 pounds; 35^ varied between 3 and 
5 pounds; 15$ came within 1 pound and some of these tallied exactly with the 
weight in the. table. 

This proved that with due allowances for the conditions referred to above 
there is enough in the rule expressed in Table 10 to furnish a guide as to the kind 
of an individual we are dealing with, whether of flabby or solid flesh. 

TABLE 10 

/"MVES the results of the observations as follows: 
Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 
Line 2, the same heights in inches. 
Line 3, the half heights in inches. 



Line 4, the first units and fractions of Line 



j- 



30 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



Line 5, the breast sizes. 
Line 6, the waist sizes. 
Line 7, the seat sizes. 

Line 8, the combined quantities of Lines 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7, which are the 
weights corresponding to the heights and widths, less some modifications to 
follow. 

When the waist gains on the breast above a 4-inch difference, add 10 pounds 
for the first inch the waist gains and decrease 1 pound successively for each inch 
increase after the first. 

Example : — For a man 5 feet 10 inches in height, 44 breast, 46 waist and 45 
seat proceed as follows : 

Half-height 35 inches 

First unit 5 

Breast 44 " 

Waist 46 " 

Seat 1: 45 " 

Making 175 pounds 

To this add for the increase of waist. For 44 breast the waist, if normal, 
would be 4 inches less, or 40 inches ; but the measure calls for 46, hence there 
are 6 inches to account for. For the first inch increase we allow 10 pounds, 9 
pounds for the second, 8 for the third, 7 for the fourth, 6 for the fifth, and 5 for 
the sixth, making a total of 45 pounds, which when added to the 175 makes a 
total of 220 pounds. 

When the waist is less than the 4-inch difference, deduct from the original 
amount 2\ pounds for each inch. 

Example : — If the half-height was 34^, first unit 4^, breast, waist and seat, 
respectively, 36, 30 and 37, the total would be 143 pounds. As the waist is 2 
inches less than the normal there would be 2 inches to deduct for and 2\ pounds 
for each inch, or a total of 5 pounds, which when deducted from the 143 pounds 
would leave 138 pounds. 

In increasing and decreasing waists the change has not all taken place at 
the waist region, but the waist quantity serves as an index to the general loss or 
gain, as the case may be. Besides this, reduce i^ inch from the weight for 
each inch the height is less than 5 feet 8 inches. 

Line 9 gives the amount representing the increase of waist above the 5-feet 
8 inch height, and the 1 A-inch decrease from the height below the 5-feet 8-inch height. 

Line 10 gives the weight corresponding to heights and widths, as modified by 
the variations above. 

While the above deductions have reached an approximate accuracy that 
entitles them to consideration, no claim is made that they are infallible. 

The measures given are tailors' measurements as taken over the vest and not 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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32 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



body measurements ordinarily employed for scientific purposes. The weights are 
also given for the draped model, or for a man as tailors deal with him. Body 
measurements are the proper thing when the actual size of man is being ascer- 
tained, but they would be misguiding in this connection. As the forms dealt with 
must be divided into classes and understood, so must weight for the extremes be 
treated likewise. The weight of children and giants could not be closely esti- 
mated by the method employed in Table 10. 



If a cutter is not benefited by study- 
ing this book, there may be something 
the matter with the book; but if the 
same cutter is not benefited by the 
study of any other book, there is some- 
thing the matter with the cutter 



34 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE ELEMENTS OF SHORT MEASURES BY HEIGHT 

AND WIDTH. 



CHORT measures partake of both height and width, excepting- the blade, which 
is taken and applied laterally only, and is therefore only an element of width. 
Divisions of the breast measure alone can never give the flexibility to correspond 
to the different types of men met with in actual practice. For instance, for two 
men of the same breast circumference the short measures would probably not 
be alike if the height of one was 5 feet 6 inches and the other was 6 feet 2 
inches. The height is a very important factor in arriving at conclusions, modified 
by the square and sloping shoulder, toward which we will direct our attention 
later. The tables to follow will be found to give the height and width quantities 
correctly. Other elements, which enter into the proposition, will of course alter 
these quantities, but this does not invalidate them within the scope considered 
in the present connection. 

THE DEPTH OF SCYE. 



TABLE 11. 

T^HIS table gives the elements of the depth of scye as follows: 

Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the same heights reduced to inches. 

Line 3, one-fourth of the total heights in inches, which is the quantity we 
have to deal with in this case. 

Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights, which were explained in 
Table 6. 

Line 5, the breasts on the 4ths of the square. 

Line 6, one-fourth of the heights on the 4ths of the square. 

Line 7, the totals of Lines 5 and 6 and the amounts of the depths of scyes as 
taken. All minor fractions that tend to confuse have been left out. 

Line 8 allows f inch for seams and make-up, but may be more or less 
according to the requirements of individual systems, or according to the custom 
of the operator. 

The elements of the scye depth are therefore one-half breast on the 4ths, the 
one-fourth heights on the 4ths, and the £ inch addition. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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n 

C- 




c 

re 

3 

- 

a 
7? 

n 

3 


o 

3 

re 

2 re 
Jq ™ 

3"S 
0> 3" 

O «■ 

3 3" 

■fe rt 
^ 0) 

: oq' 
rr 

; o 


O 

3 

re 
■ 

o* 
c 

Er 

S" 

re 

3" 
P, 

cr 
>i 

rD 
P 


6) 
ro 
P 

O) 

OS 
N* 

ro 
o> 


O 

3 

re 
i 

o" 

c 

S- 

ro 

crq' 
3" 

Ol 

5' 

o 
3" 
rD 

Ol 


2 
era' 

O) 

5' 

o 

3" 
O) 
O) 


5' 
5' 

n 




CO 


—J 




CjO 


u 


cn 


era 


CJl 




CO 


—^ 
^ 




CO 


to 


cn 


era 


— C71 




CO 




CO 


-c* 


CO 


cn 


era 

NO 


3' =X 




CO 


CO 






w 

CO 


cn 


era 

cu 


co cn 




CO 


CO 


-p> 




CO 

-p- 


cn 


era 






CO 

4^ 


CO 




0ff\ 


CO 

en 


era 


era 
cn 


CJl CJl 




CO 


8^ 






CO 

en 




cn 
era 


cn cji 




CO 


CO 






u 




en 


*-J cn 




CO 


CO 






bo 

CO 


-»j 


era 

CO 


co cn 




CO 


CO 






w 

CO 




era 

CO 


co cn 




^c 


CO 


0OX 


en 


-p» 


—4 


—4 


cB cn 




^c 


CO 




en 


-p» 


—J 


—J 


:= cn 




^ 


CO 




CJ-i 


i»o 


CO 


—4 
IO 


CB 




^C 


CO 




en 


S 




—J 


SS cn 

Ml J 




In? 


CO 




en 


£ 


—J 


^1 


= CJt 




Sp 


ic 




cn 

\<J| 


& 


-5 

of*? 


— 1 


o cn 




^ 


^: 




en 


cn 




—j 


S C7T 




— 


^r 




en 


—J 


-J 


en 
co_ 






^r 


^ 




en 


CO 




era 

CO 


CO C71 

sr=r 




5*? 


In* 




era 


CO 




en 

CO 


55 ct. 




iv 


n*: 




cr> 


cn 


- 1 


era 

eo 


OOC71 





> 

r 

H 



36 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE BLADE. 



TABLE 12. 

'"THIS table gives the elements of the blade which only deal with the widths, as 
the measure is taken in a lateral direction. Therefore widths only are 
employed in its production. 

As the heights are not used, they are not e7itered in this connection. 

Line i, the breast sizes. 

Line 2, one-fourth total breasts, or the half-breasts on the halves of the 
square. 

Line 3, 2 inches added to the quantities of Line 2, which is the blade as 
taken, without additions. 

Line 4, \\ inch added to Line 3, or 3^ inches added to Line 2, which gives 
the totals as applied to the drafts, with all additions for seams, ease and make up. 

The blade is therefore composed of the half-breast on the halves plus 3! inches. 



THE FRONT-SHOULDER MEASURE BY HEIGHTS AND 

WIDTHS. 



i'PHlS table contains the elements of the front-shoulder measure, or strap, and 
partakes of both height and width as it is taken and applied obliquely, pass- 
ing both in a vertical and a lateral direction. 

TABLE 13. 

Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, one-fourth the heights reduced to inches and the quantities dealt with 
for securing the height element. 

Line 3, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights of Line 1. 

Line 4, one-fourth the total breasts, or the half-breasts on the halves of the 
square. 

Line 5, the one-fourth heights on the 6ths of the square. 

Line 6, the totals of Lines 4 and 5, or the front-shoulder as taken. 

Line 7, the addition of one inch for seams, case and make-up, which may be 
made more or less. 

The front-shoulder measure is therefore composed of the half breast on the 
halves and the fourth-height on the 6ths plus 1 inch. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



37 



^J 


On 


^ 


-1^ 


w 


M 


r 

3 


o 

3 
re 

3" 

o 
cr 

ft) 

D. 
C 
re 
O. 

o 

r 

re 

ON 


H 
O 

3 

• re 

'■ -^ 

• p 

. 3 

• o. 

; "o" 

• p 


o 

3 

re 
i 

e 

S- 

n> 
3" 

3 
Ov 


O 

3 
? 

3 

-1 

3" 

Q 

o> 

P 


re 
P 
en 

tn 
n' 

n> 


c 

3 
CD 
1 

o 1 
5" 

re 

3* 
n> 

3" 
o 


X 

re 

3" 
W) 

5" 

rD 

P 

3 

5" 

a 



— 


s 


ISO 


J 


CO 

CO 


en 


Cn 




i^ 


co 




— 1 


CO 


en 


— en 




Ss*C 




ISO 


00 


CO 

ISO 


en 

i\>\ 


isj en 




o5^ 







00 


CO 

CO 


en 


0_> CJ1 






6^: 


10 


00 


CO 

-p* 


era 


4i» cji 




NO 


I\i\ 




00 


Co 

C71 


cr> 


cji en 




SO 


4*^ 


ISO 

4^e 


CD 


CO 

cr> 


CT3 

N5\ 


OJ CJI 




OJ 


ro 




CO 

is 


CO 

—si 


0-5 

4*V 


—J en 




CO 

XT. 


ISO 


10 


CO 


CO 

CO 


-^J 


00 en 




Co 


IO 




CO 

^5- 


CO 

CO 


— J 


to en 




CO 


i>o 


NO 


O 


-p*. 


— 4 


a en 




4^ 


CO 




CO 


-p* 


—si 


or en 






CO 


OO 


CO 


ISO 


00 


07 




4^ 
4^ 


CO 

4^ 




^» 


-p* 

CO 


-sj 

0^ 


c= en 






Co 


NO 


— 


-p* 

-p* 


— -J 


^ en 




01 


42 




-fcs. 


-p* 

cri 


— I 

5s^ 


cS en 




CJ1 


4^ 


NO 


lCs\ 


-P=» 
era 


—si 

l\>\ 


en 




Cn 






iir 


-P» 
— j 


—si 


CO C31 

Ml- 




Cn 




NO 


NO 


-P* 
00 


— sj 


CD cn 




CT3 


CXI 




NO 


-P* 

CO 


—si 


S£<cn 




crr> 
4^ 


cn 


NO 


NO 
l\5< 


en 


— J 


as cn 





> 
W 

t" 
H 

n 



-£» 


OJ 


to 


V. 

5" 


a- p 
B-" a. 

0' s- 
z p- 

: H 

■ =r 
; re 

• F 
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3' 

£L3- 

n: to 

5p 
; 0- 

. re 

. a. 

• 

■ C 

! 5' 
. re 

'. tg 

- w 


O 
3 
re 

o* 

c 

3- 

re 

o- 

re 
P 


w 

•-! 

rn 
P 

CO 
CO 

n" 

re 

CO 


— 


CO 

l\)\ 


—J 


CO 


^sT 


CO 

i\ 


— -1 
4^ 


CO 


KJ\ 


= 


OO 


CO 
ISO 


>^ 


4*\ 




CO 

CO 


NO 


c^ 


OO 


CO 

-p* 


NO 


C=3 


OO 


CO 

en 


NO 


== 


CO 


CO 

cn 


NO 


^\ 


CO 


CO 

— J 


CO 


r\f\ 


CO 

ros 


CO 

OO 


CO 


i^? 


CO 

4^ 


CO 

CO 


CO 


NO 


s 


•p* 


eo 


ISO 


^ 


4=* 


^ 


NO 


CO 


-P» 

ISO 




NO 


4^ 


-P* 
CO 




Caj 


— 


-p* 
4^ 




W 


4^ 


-p» 

cn 


en 


CO 


r>>\ 


-P* 
cn 


en 


CO 


4^; 


-P= 

—si 


cn 


^ 


[SO 


-p* 

OO 


cn 


^s 


ISO 


-p* 

CO 


CJ"s 




ISO 


en 



> 
« 

H 
-« 



38 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE BY HEIGHTS AND 

WIDTHS. 



'"PHIS table gives the elements of the over-shoulder measure, which, as it is 
taken and applied over a region where it passes in both vertical and lateral 
directions, partakes of both height and width. 

TABLE 14. 

Line i, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, one-fourth the heights reduced to inches and the quantities dealt with 
for securing the height element. 

Line 3, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights of Line 1. 

Line 4, the half-breasts on the scale of two-thirds of the square. 

Line 5, y 1 ^ the total heights, or for convenience, one-fourth the total heights 
on the scale of fourths. 

Line 6, the totals of Lines 4 and 5. 

Line 7. the stationary quantity of £ inch added to the quantities in Line 6, 
except that for greater convenience the small fractions have been left off. These 
are the corresponding quantities to the measure as taken on a person, which does 
not include allowance for making. 

Line 8, £ inch, which is the making allowance and includes all additions 
employed. 

The overs hotilder measure is therefore composed of -§ of the half-breast and 
\ of one-fourth the height plus £ inch, to which £ inch is added for making. 

ELEMENTS OF SHORT MEASURES BY WIDTHS, 
OR BREAST SIZES ONLY. 



As the height is not always obtainable, we have made the short measures 
also workable by the breast size alone, and while they cannot be flexible, as in the 
preceding tables, they will answer all general purposes for proportionate sizes. 

THE DEPTH OF SCYE. 



TABLE 15 

IVES the scye depths by the breast sizes, as follows: 
Line 1, the breast sizes. 
Line 2, the half-breasts on the 3rds. 
Line 3, stationary quantity of 3^ inches. 

Lme 4, the totals of Lines 2 and 3 which give the scye depth. 
The depth of scye is therefore \ breast plus 3^ inches. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



39 



r 

3 



or 


CO 


en 


w 


CO 


Co 


en 


u 


CO 


u 


cn 


CO 

no 


CO 


cu 


cn 


CO 
CO 


CO 
5T\ 


CO 


cn 


CO 


CO 


CO 


cn 


CO 

cn 


CO 


CO 


cn 


CO 

cn 


CO 


CO 

4>\ 


cn 


CO 


CO 


CO 


cn 


CO 
CO 


CO 


CO 


cn 


CO 
CO 


CO 


CO 


cn 


-p» 


oS\ 


CO 


cn 


-p» 


^\ 


CO 


— -J 


to 


^r 


CO 


ok:- 


6 


^; 


CO 




e 


>*■ 


CO 


Sis 


s 




CO 




cn 


09\ 


CO 


—J 


-P» 
->4 


>c 


CO 


CO 


CO 


i*r 


CO 


CO 


-p* 

CD 


^C 


CO 


2< 


cn 



w 

H 





















t-» 


































" 


3 




OO 


^J 


ON 


^ 


-p- 


C^J 


M 


- 




K 


X 


H 

o 


o) 1- 


iS. 


W 


o 

3 


X 




a 
o 
3* 


a> o 
P V 


o 


to" EL 


o 

3" 




n 
i 

c 


CTQ 
P* 




3 




r 


3- 

<■' 3" 




N 




P* 




er 








fri 


01 




-*. 




n 


. a. 




3 OC 


1 






3" 


a 




c 
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; 5" 

• p 


w 

■£■ 
pi 

3 




-1 

p 






crq' 

3" 


P 








C- 










3 




























5- 


. *1 


w 


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3 






pi 

3 


"I 

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o 

3" 


p" 








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n 


Ul 






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C 










w 








- 3 




rf- 
















• Ui 




• 3" 












— - 


— 







— 


CO 


— 






cn 


-£= 


CO 




CO 










-^ 


ro\ 


>*e 


■^ 








^ 




^~ 


— 


-^~ 




— 


CO 


— 


— CJi 




cn 




-^ 














-^ 






6^N 


^ 




^< 






«^— 


_ 


— 


CO 


— _ 




_• 


ro CJi 




Cn 


cn 


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C3 


NO 


cn 


— . i 




00"\ 


66^ 


^ 


oK! 


m^r 




rS\ 


r 3 =" J 




— 


_ 


_ 




— — 


CO 


^— 






a? 


cn 


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CO 








inSx^ 


4f< 


^5 


5^ 






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^^ 


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^i, C71 




cn 


cn 


cn 


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cn 


__ 




o*<$ 


c»~\ 


oS-tf 




c^ 






" ' 




^~ 


— 


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CO 


_ 


CJI cn 






cn 


cn 


ov\ 


cn 


cn 


S" ^S 




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— 


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^-* 


CO 


_ 


as cji 




— «i 


cn 


cn 




ro 










<^? 


<^ 


os<: 


«s 






fe\ 


= -i 




^— 


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-e» 


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CO 


«_ 


--J CJI 




CO 




cn 


to 












-^ 


C7»\ 


Oi\ 


do^; 




^f 






— 


— ~ 


^~ 




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CO 




ao cji 




CO 


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cn 




K3 


CO 


— -j 






^> 


S^> 


m^ 


-^\ 


cR""^ 










^— 


^— 


-^ 


*» 


^~- 


CO 


^_ 






CO 










CO 


^ 






4^! 




^yn 

cn X 






-^ 






CO 


CO 


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CO 


-p» 


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CO CJi 




0S\ 




^; 


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OoN. 




r5\ 


= =s 




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CO 


CO 


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CO 


■*> 


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= cji 




ro~x! 


-M? 


C»~\ 




ov^C 




^5? 


= =» 




CO 


CO 


CO 


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^ 


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oo 


cn 




0^ 


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KJC 


iv\ 












rss 


CO 


CO 




^ 


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^\ 


r^T 


g^ 




00\ 




6=^" 


=> r 2 




i*o 


CO 


CO 




^ 


^ 


^ 


= CJI 




ai^P 


d^ 


Oo\ 


6vx 


^ 


== =* 




NO 


NO 


CD 




cn 


4=» 
cn 




S cn 




SO 


NO 


CO 


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cn 


-P» 


— J 


CO CJI 




■^ 


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^ 


00\ 


o*x* 




ni\ 


=3 =C 




NO 


NO 


NO 




— 


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socn 




~"* 




CO 






^ 


~j 






r\>\ 


-i^ 






ov^r 




cfex* 


=3 =£ 




K3 


NO 


NO 


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__ 


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— 


co cn 












cr» 










4^ 




8^ 








-k: 






NO 


NO 


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— 


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_ 






NO 




CO 




cn 


CD 










^X 


dc>? 




c^ 




0»~\ 


= =s 




NO 


KO 


NO 




^~ 


cn 


— 


CO CJI 




NO 








cn 




—J 






4^ 


Rsc 


?>? 


ix 


5^ 











f 



40 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE BLADE. 



TABLE 16. 

THIS table gives the component parts of the blade by the breast sizes. 

Line i, the breast sizes. 

Line 2, one-fourth the total breasts, or half-breasts on the halves of the 
square. 

Line 3, the stationary quantity of 3 J inches. 

Line 4, the totals of Lines 2 and 3, which are the blade sizes corresponding 
to the breast sizes. 

The blade is therefore one-half the breast size on the halves and 3^ inches. 



THE FRONT-SHOULDER. 



TABLE 17. 

pHIS table gives the front-shoulder measures or strap lengths by the breast 
sizes. 

Line 1, the breast sizes. 

Line 2, one-fourth full breasts, or half-breasts on the halves of the square. 
Line 3, stationary quantity of 3! inches. 

Line 4, the totals of Lines 2 and 3, which are the front-shoulder measures 
corresponding to the breasts. 

The front-shoulder measure is therefore one-half breast on the scale of halves 
and 3I inches. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



41 



-f- 


OJ 




M 




3' 




a3 

c = 
D. 
n> t£_ 

■ O 

; c_ 

'• E 

• ft 
. _*i 

: > 

- a. 

• 5' 

• 3 

• V 

■ 5' 

• i 


cn 

1. 

o' 

3 

P 

a. 
g. 

5' 

3 




z 


n 

p_ 

n 

O 

T 

<* 

n> 

Ji 




2? 


^c 




—J 


CO 


^c 


CO 

4^ 


—J 

4^ 


CO 


7~ 


CO 


©o 


CO 
NO 


?5 


CO 


CO . 


CO 

CO 




CO 


co 


CO 

-p* 


no 


CO 


oo 


CO 

cn 


no 

4^ 


CO 


CO 


CO 

cn> 


CO 


CO 


CO 


Co 

—■J 


CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 
OO 


CO 

(5^ 


CO 


CO 


CO 

CO 


CO 


CO 


1=9 


-p=» 

C3 


5» 


CO 


•f^ 


-P* 




CO 


" 


-P» 
ho 


roX~ 


CO 


~ 


-P» 

CO 




CO 


= 


-p» 
-p* 


eji 


CO 


17 


-p* 

cn 




CO 


i\S\ 


-P» 
cn> 


cn 


CO 


i^ 


-P* 
— -J 


cn 


CO 


ro 


-P* 

oo 


o? 


CO 


no 


-p* 

CD 




CO 


no 


U1 

CO 



H 

W 
F 
H 



-p- 


U> 


to 


re 














H 

a- 

ft) 
> 

o" 
3" 

o^ 

- 


o" 

3 
P 

5" 






D 
1 



-t 

a 




33 

-i 

D 

13 
Ji 

Ji 

Tl 




= 


CO 




CO 




i\ 


CO 


>X 


CO 




r\S\ 


Co 

r\j"x 


CO 


CO 
NO 




>^ 


CO 


CO 


CO 
CO 




r»o 


CO 


CO 


CO 






CO 




CO 

cn 




NO 


CO 


CO 


CO 

CT3 






CO 


CO 

4^~ 


CO 




CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 
CO 




CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 

CO 




CO 


Co 


<=» 


4=» 




CO 


CO 


CO 


-p* 




^ 


CO 


CO 


-p* 

NO 




4> 


CO 


CO 


-P* 

CO 






Co 


— 


-p* 
-p* 




55 


CO 


>c 


-p* 

cn 




cn 


CO 


^r 


-P» 

CTi 




Cn 


CO 


>^ 


-P* 

—■J 




Cn 


Co 


IS) 


-P* 

Co 




4^> 


CO 


ro 


-P* 
CO 




CT9 




CO 


NO) 


cn 

CO 





> 

a 



42 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE. 



TABLE 18. 

THIS table gives the over-shoulder measures by the breast sizes. 
Line i, the breast sizes. 
Line 2, -| of half-breasts. 
Line 3, stationary quantity, 5^ inches. 

Line 4, the total of Lines 2 and 3, which are the over-shoulder measures by 
the breast sizes. 

The over-shoulder measure is therefore f of the half -breast and 5J iruhes. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



43 







1 


r 1 












1 -- 1 

1 a> 


-P> 


oj 


w | -* 






H 


CO 


0>s 


W 






-1 






n - 


P- 




3 _ 






w 




3 


o 


r * 


c a> 


w 


l-n 




&l 




£- 


CD 






i 






D- 


cr 












p 


— . 


CD 






o 








p 






: > 
















■ Q- 
























■ O 
















t/i 








' ' 







to 


en 








^ 


*\ 






— 


en 


— 




CTl 








ofr^ 


^v 


do^* 




— 


en 


— 




en 


>- 




ro 


^* 


*•? 







en 


— 




CT5 






CO 


>c 


>\ 









en 


— 


to 




£\ 


OO^ 


-p» 




en 


— 


CO 

en 


<r 


^>v 


5N: 




_ 


en 


— 




■— J 






en 


^ 


£\ 






[ 




— 


CO 








— -J 


i£^ 


>\ 


Oo 




} 

















^ 


4K 


^c 




_ 




— 


w 


OS 






eo 


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44 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



ADDITIONS TO SHORT MEASURES FdR OVERCOATS. 



4S an undercoat goes over the vest, so an overcoat goes over the undercoat ; 
and as the undercoat is usually measured over the vest, so an overcoat can, 
perhaps, best be measured over the undercoat ; but whether this be so or not, cer- 
tain it is that the same results must be attained by both methods. The explana- 
tion following will be with that end in view. 

Let us suppose we have only the measures as taken over the vest for an 
undercoat and are called upon to make an overcoat from them in one case, and 
then take the same measures over an undercoat in another case. 

As both methods aim at producing the same thing, the two sets of measure- 
ments, with proper allowances, should produce the same results, with the provision 
that those taken over the undercoat are not taken over a garment too heavily 
padded or of too heavy or too light weight goods. 

A two inch increase of the measures taken on the undercoat over those taken 
on the vest may be considered the basis for the breast and waist quantities. This 
will not allow for extra drapery, as in box coats, but drapery is not a matter of 
measurements, merely a matter of emphasized width quantities, and therefore does 
not apply in this connection. 

Let us take two instances, one of measures taken over the vest and the other 
taken over the undercoat and compare them as follows : 





36 breast 


8|- depth 


11 blade 


n| front 


i6£ over 




Over the vest with additions 


36 breast 


°i de P th 


12J blade 


I2f front 


17J over 


Over the undercoat as taken 


38 breast 


g depth 


ni blade 


I2j front 


iyi over 


Over the undercoat as taken 
with ordinary additions 


3S breast 


9} depth 


13 blade 


I3i front 


18 over 


As both methods should be 


38 breast 


g-J depth 


13I blade 


I3i front 


i8J over 



An overcoat of any given size should, of course, be more ample than an under- 
coat of the same size as the undercoat comes closer to the body and is less subject 
to shoulder building and less affected by the weight of the vest material. Only the 
front of a vest is made of heavy material, the back is made from a light weight 
lining, while the overcoat has to pass over the back, front and sleeves of the 
undercoat, which are all of the same weight. 

Our aim is, therefore, to make such additions to the measures that, whether 
they are taken over the vest or over the coat, they will tally with the measures 
marked " As both methods should be " in the above comparative example. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



45 



TABLE 19 

pTXPLAINS the additions made to measures taken over the vest to get the 
results explained above, so as to make them workable in order to gain over- 
coat measures by them. 

Column i gives respectively breast, waist, depth, blade, front and over- 
shoulder measures as taken over the vest. 

Column 2, the additions to make them overcoat measures. 

Column 3, the resultant overcoat measures with additions included — the 
measures as they should be used. 



Measures Over the Vest 




Columns 


I 




2 




3 




Breast 


37 


PLUS 


2 


= 


39 


Waist 


34 


» 


»i 


= 


36 


Depth 


1% 


" 


\% 


= 


10 


Blade 


nX 


« 


1% 


= 


iaX 


Front shoulder 


12 


" 


\% 


= 


13* 


Over shoulder 


\l% 


11 


\% 


= 


I8# 



Measures Over the Coat 




Columns 


| 




2 




3 


Breast 


39 


PLUS 





= 


39 


Waist 


36 




■ 


= 


36 


Depth 


9* 




% 


= 


10 


Blade 


\\% 




\\ 


= 


I3X 


Front shoulder 


12X 




\% 


= 


I3 3 X 


Over shoulder 


\i% 




% 


= 


\ty 



TABLE 19. 



TABLE 20. 



TABLE 20. 

PHIS table gives an example of measures taken on the same man as in the 

preceding tabic, but in this case over the undercoat. 

Column 1 is respectively the breast, waist, depth, blade, front and over-shoul- 
der measures as taken over the undercoat. 

Column 2, the additions required for overcoats. 

Column 3, the resultant measures with additions included — the measures as 
they should be used for overcoats. 

It will be seen that the results are the same in Tables 19 and 20, as of course 
should be the case in two methods which have in view the same end. The differ- 
ence is all made in Columns 1 and 2, and is merely a matter of addition to make 
the result uniform, regardless of whether the measures are taken over the undercoat 
or over the vest. 



46 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



SHORT MEASURES FOR OVERCOATS. 



THE governing principles in obtaining overcoat measures are identical with those 
already explained for undercoats. The difference consists in additions only, 
as the primary heights and widths are the same. 

THE DEPTH OF SCYE FOR OVERCOATS. 



TABLE 21 

f IVES the depth of scye for overcoats as follows : 

Line i, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the breast sizes for overcoats corresponding to the heights given, 
which, it will be noticed, are two sizes larger than for undercoats. As a man remains 
the same height whether he is having an overcoat or an undercoat made, the over- 
coat to go on top of the undercoat must be two sizes larger, as it has a greater 
circumference to cover. 

Line 3 introduces the waist sizes, which have also increased two sizes, having 
a corresponding increase of circumference to cover. 

As an overgarment is always an ample one, the basis for these waist quanti- 
ties is the same as those given in Table 9. 

Line 4, the depths of scye corresponding to the heights and widths given, 
which for overcoats is \ inch more than the depths of scye for undercoats of the 
same heights and widths as given in Table 11. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



47 





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48 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE BLADE MEASURE FOR OVERCOATS. 



TABLE 22. 

I-IERE we have the blade measures for overcoats. The method is explained in 
Table 12, and the additions given in Tables 19 and 20 apply in this case. 

The heights are omitted, as only widths are dealt with. 

Line 1, the corresponding breast sizes for overcoats. 

Line 2, the corresponding blade quantities, which are \ inch more than the 
blade measures for undercoats of the same heights and widths as given in Table 12. 

THE FRONT MEASURE FOR OVERCOATS. 



TABLE 23. 

THIS table contains the front-shoulder measures for overcoats. The explana- 
tions for additions in Tables 19 and 20 apply to this table. 
Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 
Line 2, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights. 

Line 3, the front-shoulder measures, which- are \ inch in excess of those given 
for the midcrcoats of the same size and height. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



49 



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50 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE FOR OVERCOATS. 



TABLE 24. 

'THIS table gives the over-shoulder measures for overcoats. The additions are 
explained in Tables 14, 19 and 20. 

Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the corresponding breast sizes. 

Line 3, the over-shoulder quantities according to additions in Tables 19 
and 20, which are \ inch greater than those employed in the undercoats of the 
same heights and widths. 

This gives a practical basis to work from and will be found very convenient 
for practical application. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



51 



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W 
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52 CARLSTR0M3 PROPORTIONS. 

THE ELEMENTS OF LONG MEASURES BY HEIGHTS 

AND WIDTHS. 



I ONG measures, or shoulder measures, traverse sections of the body at the 
region indicated by the name. They partake of both the heights and widths 
of the parts covered in their taking; but as the purposes of the upper and lower 
measures are of a different nature the measures must be treated differently. The 
effects to be gained by the use of long measures are the shoulder slope and 
the shoulder size, the former a height quantity and the latter a width quantity. 
This suggests that the upper-shoulder measure should register quantities towards 
gaining the heights, and therefore should partake of the heights as well as of the 
widths, while the lower-shoulder measure should distribute the size quantities, 
and therefore can only partake of the breast sizes or widths. This arrangement 
holds the lower measures at relatively proportionate quantities corresponding to 
the breast sizes. The height element gives greater flexibility to the upper meas- 
ures for a greater slope in the slender sizes and squareness in the corpulent forms, 
or according to the combination of the elements dealt with as taken and applied 
in actual practice. 

THE UPPER-SHOULDER MEASURE. 



TABLE 25. 

"PHIS table deals with the upper-shoulder measure by both heights and widths 
as follows : 

Line i, the heights as explained in Table 6. 

Line 2, the same heights reduced to inches. 

Line 3, \ of total heights in inches or the division of the heights that we 
have to deal with. 

Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights. 

Line 5, -| of the fourth-heights. 

Line 6, f of the half-breasts. 

Line 7, \ of the half-breasts. 

Line 8, the totals of Lines 5, 6 and 7, which make the qua.ntity of the upper 
shoulder. 

Line 9 gives practically the same results, but does away with the fractions — 
the upper shoulder as it is to be used. 

The upper-shoulder measure is therefore composed of -| of the fourth-height 
-| of ike half-breast and \ breast. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



58 





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54 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE LOWER-SHOULDER MEASURE. 



PHIS table is for the lower-shoulder measures. The results are found in the 
following manner by the breast sizes, or the widths alone : 

TABLE 26. 

Line i, the breast sizes. 
Line 2, -§ of the half-breasts. 

Line 3, half-breasts on the halves of the square. 
Line 4, stationary addition of 3^ inches. 
Line 5, the totals which give the lower shoulders. 

The lower-shoulder measure is therefore composed of \ and \ of the half -breast 
plus 3^- inches. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



55 



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> 



56 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



LONG MEASURES FOR OVERCOATS. 



THE explanation already made in connection with the change of measures from 
undercoats to overcoats applies in a general way to long measures as well 
as to short measures, but to make it more directly applicable to those in hand we 
take the following example : 

For a 38 breast taken over the vest we have 26-| upper shoulder and 25-I 
lower shoulder. 

As an overcoat should be two sizes larger than an undercoat the. measures 
if taken over the undercoat should be as follows: 
40 breast, 

27^ upper shoulder, 
26$ lower shoulder. 
As an overcoat should have greater ease than an undercoat and is made from 
heavier material \ inch should be added to the shoulder measures. With this 
addition the measures are as follows: 27I upper shoulder, 27-^ lower shoulder. 

TABLE 27. 

|PH1S table gives the upper-shoulder measures for overcoats according to the 
above deductions. 

Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 
Line 2, the corresponding breast sizes for overcoats. 

Line 3, the upper-shoulder measures for overcoats corresponding to the 
heigths of Line 1 and the widths of Line 2. 

TABLE 28. 

jPHIS table gives the lower-shoulder measures arranged on the same plan as the 
preceding table. 

Line 1, the breast sizes. As the lower shoulder does not partake of height, 
none is given. 

Line 2, the lower-shoulder measures for overcoats corresponding to the breast 

sizes in Line 1. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



57 



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58 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



PROPORTIONATE DIVISION OF WIDTHS OF BACK, 

SCYE AND FRONT. 



IN this connection we have given the proportionate widths of the back, the scye 
and the front as they are distributed at the breast line. 

It is well to state, however, that these quantities do not hold good in all sys- 
tems, as the angle at which a system is laid out affects the quantities, as, for 
instance, in a system where the breast line falls farther down on the front, the 
quantity increases. These divisions will only apply in systems that locate the 
breast line on the draft at the same angle as taken on the man, subject, however, 
to slight changes according to individual fancy. 

For such systems these divisions will prove helpful in testing patterns and 
in finding just how much they vary from the type of averages. 

TABLE 29. 

Line i, the breast sizes. 

Line 2, average back widths for the breast sizes, which are \ of the half- 
breast plus 3 inches. 

Line 3, the scye widths, which are \ of the half-breast plus \ inch. 

Line 4, the totals of Lines 2 and 3, which together make the proportionate 
blade measures. 

Line 5 locates the center of the breast (or lapel seam) when added to the 
quantities of Line 4 and includes 2\ inches addition for seams and ease. It is 
gained on the halves of the square less 1^ inch. 

Line 6, the total widths of the fronts of single-breasted coats. They are 
gained from the half-breasts on the halves of the square. 

Line 7, the combined quantities of Lines 2, 3 and 6, which produce the breast 
sizes as given in Line 1. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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60 CARLSTROMS PROPORTIONS. 



ANATOMICAL SECTIONAL DIVISION OF THE HEIGHT 

OF THE HUMAN BODY. 



IP to this point we have not only dealt with heights and widths in themselves, 
but we have also defined their relation to each other. 

The rules laid down cover the range of the quantities dealt with in the prac- 
tice of garment cutting and designing, which constitute a system -of computation 
that is unique- because it is more or less original, yet scientific because it is in 
accordance with the truth of anatomy. 

The chapter in hand draws upon the general fund of knowledge of propor- 
tions, known as the " Octaval System," as applied in sculpture and painting, which 
has been handed down from the era of Grecian culture. 

With various modifications, representing individual conceptions, it is taught in 
all schools of art and understood by all artists. Tailoring has only applied it, not 
invented it, and Dr. Wampen was undoubtedly the means of laying the founda- 
tion for its use in the production of garments. 

Though tailors sometimes boast of familiarity with anatomy, we know of no 
anatomical proportions applicable to tailoring except those employed by artists in 
counterfeiting the human form. 

It would surprise many to know how absolutely devoid of knowledge of pro- 
portions of the exterior of the human body physicians as a class are. The anat- 
omy they study is of the organs and bones, and the average physician closes 
his " Gray's Anatomy," when his college course is ended, practically never to 
open it again General education is a thing to be commended, but the confounding 
of anatomy with tailoring shows a lack of proper education. 

The knowledge a physician has of anatomy is as useless to a tailor in drafting 
garments as a knowledge of mineralogy would be to a sailor in order that he 
might know, should his ship be wrecked on a reef, the nature of the rock on which 
she struck. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 61 



THE OCTAVAL DIVISION ILLUSTRATED. 



PHOUGH no fixed set of rules will apply in all cases, the following divisions of 
the human body will be found to approximate to the general average 
development, so that where they do not apply, when the subject is properly classified 
(as hereafter explained) will be the exception. 

The figures introduced show the profile back and front of the human 
form divided into eight sections. Each eighth is again subdivided into eight 
parts, making the total height of the body eight times eight, or 64 units. This 
may have been the reason why Dr. Wampen selected the 5 feet 4 inch height as 
the ideal, as it gives one inch to each unit and an even eight inches to each 
eighth part, or head, as it is sometimes called, because the head approximately 
composes one of the eight parts. Different systems of reckoning, however, differ 
on this point. 



62 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE FIGURES. 



PLATE 1. 

TTHE divisions fall as illustrated on the figures and can be described in their 
least complicated form as follows : 

Tke first eighth (or head) is the head proper, or from the top of the head to 
just below the chin in front and to the nape of the neck in the back, as at Line i 
on the figures. 

The second head (or eighth) is the height quantity from Line r to Line 2, or 
from the chin to the nipples in front, and from the nape of the neck in the back 
to a point on the back opposite where the arms join the trunk at the scye level. 

The third head falls from Line 2 to Line 3, or from the nipples to the navel 
in front, and from the scye level to the small waist in the back. 

The fourt.h head falls from Line 3 to Line 4, or from the navel to the groin 
in front, and from the small waist to the heavy part of the seat in the back. 

The fifth head falls from Line 4 to Line 5, or from the groin to midthigh in 
front, and from the seat to midthigh in the back. 

The sixth head falls from Line 4 to Line 5, or from the midthigh to below 
the knee-cap in front, and from the mid-thigh to just below the knee, or at the top 
of the calf, in the back. 

The seventh head falls from Line 6 to Line 7, or from below the knee-cap to 
opposite the lower end of the calf in front, and from the top of the calf to below 
the lower part of the calf in the back. 

The eighth head falls from Line 7 to Line 8, or from opposite the lower calf 
to the bottom of the foot in front, and from below the lower calf to the bottom 
of the heel in the back. 

All students of proportions should familiarize themselves with these divis- 
ions in order better to understand some of the explanations to follow. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



63 




Plate i 



64 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE ILLUSTRATION APPLIED. 



TABLE 30. 



IN this table we have the application of the foregoing illustrations. It shows 
various exact measures of important divisions of the body for application in 
actual practice. 

Line i, the heights from 5 feet up to 6 feet 6 inches, which include about all 
the heights that are met with in the construction of garments of all kinds for men. 

Line 2, the heights reduced to inches. 

Line 3 shows the measures corresponding to the heights of Lines 1 and 2 for 
each section (or head) as between any two of the lines numbered consecutively in 
the accompanying figure, previously explained. As the human figure is composed 
of eight of these sections, the amounts in this line if multiplied by 8 will give the 
total height. As for example : under the 6-foot height in the line we are dealing 
with, we have 9 inches. This 9 if multiplied by the number of sections, or 8, 
gives 72 inches, the number of inches in the 6 foot height. 

Line 4 shows the subdivision of each section, or head, into 8 units, and this 
line gives the amount of each unit. As the body has been first divided into 8 sec- 
tions, as per Line 3 of this table, and as this line (4) is- a further subdivision of 
each section into eight units, each unit becomes -fa part of the total height. There- 
fore,, if we multiply any of the numbers of Line 4 by 64, we gain the total height 
corresponding, as per Lines 1 and 2. Example: Under the 5 foot 4 inch height 
in Line 4 of this table we have 1 inch, and 64 times 1 inch is 64 inches, which is 
the number of inches contained in the 5 feet 4 inch height. Again, in the 5 feet 
8 inch column of Line 4 we find i-$\, which is equal to i T \ inch. 64 times 1 is 64 
and 64 times -fa is -f-f, or 4 full inches. These 4 inches, when added to the 64 
already obtained, make a total of 68 inches, which is the number of inches con- 
tained in the 5 feet 8 inch height. (The fractions in this line have not been 
reduced, but held at the 64ths, as 64 is the total number of units dealt with and 
therefore more easily seen at a glance.) 

The above explanations give us a clear understanding of the component 
quantities of height as they actually occur in the forms dealt with. Their counter- 
parts will be found in every form, subject to the compensating features to be 
explained later. 

The rest of this table is the application of the above principles to locate cer- 
tain divisions, and is embodied here so that it will prove convenient in connection 
with the quantities of Lines 3 and 4, where the sections- and units are figured 
ready for use in finding the measure of any division of the body. 

All lengths to follow are, of course, given from the nape of the neck, as we do 
not clothe the head proper. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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66 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



Line 5 gives the lengths corresponding to the heights from the nape of the 
neck to the natural waist, or from Lines 1 and 3 of the figure, or two sections of 
the body, giving the natural waist length. The seam lost on sewing on the collar, 
or \ inch, may be added when this quantity is used to gain the natural waist 
length in actual practice. It will be noticed this line gives twice the quantities 
contained in Line 3 plus \ inch. 

Line 6 covers the distance from the nape of the neck to the heavy part of the 
seat and the quantities of this line add another section to the two dealt with in 
the previous line, or from Line 1 to Line 4 of the figure. 

To find the length to the seat, find the amount in Line 3 corresponding to 
the height dealt with, and multiply by 3 for the three sections it covers. 
Example: For a 5 foot 10 inch height the amount of one section is Sf inches. 
(See Line 3.) 3 times 8 is 24 inches, and 3 times f inch is 2\ inches, and 24 and 
2\ is 26L as in this line. 

Line 7, the lengths from the nape of the neck to just below the knee, which 
cover five sections of the body, as from Line 1 to Line 6 of the illustration. 

To find this length, first find the amount of one section in Line 3 correspond- 
ing to the height dealt with, and multiply the amount by 5. Example : For 6 
feet 2 inches, the amount of one head in Line 3 is 9^ inches. 5 times 9 is 45. 5 
times \ is \\. 45 inches plus \\ inch is 46^ inches, as per Line 7. 

Line 8, the lengths from the nape of the neck to below the calf, as from Line 
1 to Line 7, or 6 sections of the figure. To find these lengths proceed as before 
by finding the amount of one section corresponding to the height dealt with and 
multiply the same by 6. Example : For the 5 feet 6 inch height, one section is 
8£ inches, as per Line 3. 6 times 8 is 48 and 6 times \ is \\, which together 
make 49^, as per Line 8. 

In the preceding tables we have covered the essential points dealt with in 
constructing a model for the draping of the upper portion of the trunk proper. 
We are now ready to get the total by placing the results in a combination table 
that will contain the results of all of the previous deductions, giving the essential 
points in a condensed form for ready reference, from which lengths can be gained 
at a glance. 

The memory can always be refreshed on how the quantities were gained by 
referring to the past tables. 



NO 



That this is the only work on propor- 
tions that cutters can read ; under- 
stand and apply 



That this is the first time results have 
~' /_ "' been served up ready for eon- 

sumption. 



IS 



MADE 



That this is the first book that has 
handled the subject exhaustively 



That this is the first book on the 
subject published on this continent 



We have simply never heard of any 
book of the kind 



68 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE WORKING TABLE FOR AVERAGES. 



u 



P to this point we have gathered the raw material for the building of some- 
thing tangible. Next is presented a table of averages containing all the 
important quantities, scientifically arranged, that are dealt with in everyday prac- 
tice. In the form presented this table will prove exceedingly helpful for general 
work, or as a standard by which measures taken may be checked as well as a 
guide for all width and length quantities. 

It will prove a revelation of the inaccuracy of measures to compare them with 
this table. Such comparison, perhaps, may at first convince any one who tries 
them of the inaccuracy of this table, but repeated trials will reveal the fact that 
measures and the individual methods of taking them are so varying that the 
measures can be made to describe almost any dimension desired. 

A method of measuring will be acquired by this table that will be approxi- 
mately accurate by checking your measures, because you will know what they 
ought to be and will be more careful in taking them. This can easily be. proved 
by comparing two sets of measures taken on the same individual at different times. 
Very seldom are they near enough alike to give the same practical results. 

TABLE 31. 

THIS table does not give the dimensions for all types of men. Further on 

will be given other tables for other types, but it is first necessary to make 

ourselves familiar with the average type. The author knows of no other table so 

nearly complete as this. It has all additions included. The notations at each line 

explain themselves. For the minute details refer to the tables noted. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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70 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

THE CORPULENT TYPE. 

Illustrated on Plate 2. 



pROPERLY to understand the corpulent type has long been a problem in the 
trade. The corpulent form has been looked upon as an irregularity in the 
economy of nature, and any attempt to arrive at a method on which to base 
calculations has not advanced far beyond the limits of mere approximation. 

It is understood that the waist sizes have gained a certain amount out of pro- 
portion to what they ought to have gained, but why they have done so is a ques- 
tion that has usually been answered with the rather unsatisfactory explanation 
that "experience has proved it to be so," an explanation that does not explain. 

Experience points the direction in which we should go, but science guides us 
on the way. Our aim is to point out the conditions to which we must conform, 
to point out the laws which experience has compelled us to take notice of, and 
which, when understood and heeded, do not inflict the penalties that so many 
have paid. 

Corpulency is the effect of the law of compensation. What is lacking in 
relative height, corresponding to the breast size, has been gained in width of 
waist, shoulders, hips, arm and lower extremities. The height quantities have not 
altered, but the width quantities have given them a new element to take into con- 
sideration in dealing with this type. If a man continued to increase in height as 
he increased in width, there would be no corpulency, simply large and small nor- 
mal forms ; but as the corpulent type increases in width while the height remains 
stationary, a relative increase of width develops. As this increase is gradual and 
develops to different degrees, corpulency is relative, hence must be considered in 
its relation to the other dimensions of the body. Table 32 covers the range of 
the height and width quantities most frequently met in actual practice, and the 
variations, when heights and widths differ, are also explained. 

As has already been stated, corpulency occurs in different degrees. The 
table given is so flexible that results can be obtained in any degree, according to 
the ideas different operators may hold to be the most suitable for their business. 
As a safe average we have employed what we shall call the " triple degree " of 
corpulency, as will be noted in the explanations that follow : 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



71 




Plate 2 



72 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

TABLE 32. 

fHE following explanations demonstrate the method employed to gain corpu- 
lent quantities : 

Line i gives the number of columns each way from the Checking Column. 

Line 2, the heights in feet and inches. As the corpulent type is often aptly 
called "short and stout," it suggests, and very correctly, that the heights must not 
run up into the greater quantities. We have therefore made the 5 foot 10 inch 
height the maximum, above which point the heights decrease while the widths 
increase, which constitutes corpulency. 

Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 5, the half-heights in inches progressively, by which the breast sizes, 
which increase in that manner, are gained. 

Line 6, one-fourth the heights, which are used to gain sectional measures by. 

Line 7, the first units and the fractions of the half-heights of Line 5, as 
explained in Table 1. 

Line 8 gives the degree of corpulency used in this table. Being three inches, 
it is called the "triple degree." This arrangement makes the heights three 
inches less for their accompanying width quantities than in the tables of averages. 
For instance, 38 breast was in the 5 foot 8 inch column in the preceding table. 
Here it has fallen in a height column three inches less, or in the 5 foot 5 inch col- 
umn, which is the effect desired. A greater or less number may be used to gain 
a greater or less width quantity for the height dealt with. If two inches, instead of 
three, were used, it would be called the "double degree" of corpulency, and four 
inches would be called the " quadruple degree," etc. The triple degree, how- 
ever, will average for corpulency as well as the quantities in Table 31 will average 
for proportionate forms. 

Line 9, the breast sizes gained by adding Lines 5, 7 and 8. Line 8, as has 
just been explained, gives the increased width quantities above the average. 

Line 10, the waist sizes of the corpulent form. They are gained as in Table 
31 by checking by the 5 feet 8 inch column (the numbers in Line 1 give the num- 
ber of columns each way from the Checking Column) and adding twice the 
degree given in Line 8 for quantities above the Checking Column. Below the 
Checking Column, deduct the number in Line 1 from the half-Checking Column 
height (34) and add as above the Checking Column, twice the degree given in 
Line 8. 

Example:— To gain the waist size for a 48 breast, find the number directly 
above 48 in the top line. It is 7 in this instance. Add one-half of this, or 3^, mak- 
ing 10^ in all. Add this io^ to the half-height of the Checking Column (34) and 
you will gain 44^. Now add to this twice the degree of corpulency, the degree 
being 3, and twice 3 being 6, which when added to the 44^ makes 50^, which rep- 
resents the number of inches the waist measures for a 48 breast, when the height 
is as here given. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



73 



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74 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



To find the waist for a 37 breast, subtract the number in the top line directly 
above 37 from the half-checking height (t,j being located below the Checking 
Column). The number in the top line being 4 and the half-height dealt with 34, as 
usual, this leaves 30. Twice the degree of corpulency, as given in Line 8, added 
to 30, makes 36 as the waist size for a 37 breast corpulent. 

This method gives us a very good run of sizes, but if in actual practice you 
have a man measuring 47 breast and only 5 feet 6 inches tall, the number in the 
top line directly above the breast size, which is 6, is added to one-half of its own 
value, making it 9. To this 9 add the number in the top line directly above the 
height, which is 2, and add the full amount of its own value, making it 4 ; this, 
when added to the 9, makes 13. Add this total to the waist size of the lower 
height to gain the waist size for the greater, or 13 to 38 in this case, making 51 
inches. 

Again, if the height for the same breast size is 3 inches less, or 5 feet 3 
inches, the figure in the top line of the height would be 5 inches, which, being 
below the Checking Column, is used twice, making 10. Then the figure in the top 
line above the breast size, which is 6, and being above the Checking Column, the 
half of its own value is added, making 9 inches, and 9 and 10 make 19, which 
quantity is added to the waist of the lesser height, or 19 plus 35, making 54 inches 
as the waist size for a man of 5 feet 3 inches tall and 47 breast. 

As we are adding these quantities to a waist size that already contains the 
"triple degree" of corpulency, the degree quantity is not used again. 

Line 11, the depths of the scye by heights and widths, as explained in 
Table 1 1. 

Line 12, the blade measures corresponding to the width quantities in Line 9. 

Line 13, the front shoulders by heights and widths, as explained in Table 13. 

Line 14, the overshoulder measures by heights and widths, as explained in 
Table 14, which, like the rest of the short measures, vary according to the fluctua- 
tions of the height and width quantities. 

Line 15, the upper shoulder measures by heights and widths, as explained in 
Table 25. 

Line 1 6, the lower shoulder measures by widths only, as explained in 
Table 26. 

Lines 17, 18, 19 and 20 are the anatomical divisions corresponding to the 
heights given in this table, as explained in Table 30, and give the lengths to the 
natural waist, the seat, the small knee and the lower calf, respectively. 



Proportions are not a cure-all. They 
will meet every requirement that 
comes within their sphere, but will 
neither provide for unequal heights of 
shoulders nor for unequal lengths of 



76 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE SLENDER FORM. 

Illustrated on Plate 3. 



THE slender form is a type by itself and quite as perplexing to handle as the 
opposite extreme, the corpulent. What it has gained in height has been 
lost in width. This loss and gain make a problem for the student. 

The typical slender form has a sloping shoulder, but very decided exceptions 
to this rule are not unusual. Of these exceptions we shall hear later. 

The table accompanying this chapter lays out the length quantities in pro- 
portion to the total heights and widths according to the width surfaces traversed, 
which is indeed the way in which this type develops. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



77 




Plate 3 



78 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



TABLE 33. 

THE component parts of this table for the slender form are the following: 

Line i, the number of columns each way from the Checking Column. 

Line 2, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 5, one-fourth heights in inches. 

Line 6, the first units and fractions of the half-heights in Line 4. The 
amounts in this line, when added to the half-heights, give the breast quantities for 
normal forms, but in the slender form the widths have decreased, more or less, 
according to the degree of slenderness. 

Line 7 gives the degree of slenderness, and we have employed the " triple 
degree " as a representative one of this class. When the amount of this line is 
deducted from the totals of Lines 4 and 6 we gain the breast sizes for the slender 
forms, which reduce the widths a like amount, making them three sizes less than 
the normal for the normal heights, or reducing the widths while leaving the 
heights normal. , 

Line 8, the breast sizes, which are gained by adding Lines 4 and 6, as usual, 
but reducing them for slenderness the amounts of the "triple degree" in Line 7. 

Line 9 introduces quantities that may be used in gaining a graduated increase 
of waist, which increase and decrease an equal amount respectively above and 
below the Checking Column. 

Line 10 gives the waist sizes, which may be held at an even increase of one 
inch by deducting the amount in the top line, together with the degree in Line 7, 
from the half-heights of the Checking Column up to the checking heights, and by 
addi7ig the same amounts to the half-heights of the Checking Column above the 
checking heights, but a more gradual increase has been adopted for the quantities 
in this line, which are gained as follows : 

Above the Checking Column. Find the number in the top line of the column 
containing the breast size dealt with. Add one-half of its own value to the half- 
heights of the Checking Column, also the amount of Line 9, and deduct from the 
total the first unit of the half-heights in Line 6. The result is the waist size 
above the Checking- Column. 

Example: — 43 breast. The number in the top line is 8. One-half of 8 
added to itself makes 12. Add to this the quantity in Line 9, or the if inch below 
43. an d y° u nav e 13!, which when added to 34 (or the half of the checking height) 
makes 47$. Deduct from this the first unit, or the 8 inches in Line 6, and the 
remainder is 39! inches, or the waist size of a slender 43 breast of 6 feet 4 inches 
in height. 

Below the Checking Colu?nn. Find the number in the top line of the column 
containing the breast dealt with. (Do not add the half to itself.) Deduct it 
from the half-height of the Checking Column, also the first unit of Line 6 and the 
amount of Line 9. The result gives waist sizes below the Checking Column. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



79 



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80 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



Example : — 33 breast. Deduct the amount of the top line, plus the amount 
in Line 6, plus the amount in Line 9, from the half of the checking height. The 
amounts are respectively 2, 3 and \, which together make 5^, and when deducted 
from 34 leave 28I as the waist size for a slender 33 breast of 5 feet 6 inches height. 

In actual practice, when the heights and widths differ from the arrangement 
given in this table, the waist sizes may be found as follows : 

If we have a 36 breast for a man 6 feet 1 inch tall, find the number of columns 
that the 6 feet 1 inch height is from the 36 breast column, in this case 4 columns, 
as at the 40 breast. Count the same number of columns below 36, or to 32 
breast. The waist size located half-way between the 36 and 32, as at 34 in this 
case 29^ inches, is the corresponding waist to a 36 breast and 6 feet 1 inch height. 

Again, if we have a 39 breast and a 5 feet 10 inch height, find the number of 
columns that separate them. As only one column separates them in this case, use 
the waist size in that column (33^), but add i\ for each inch difference in height 
above the 5 feet 10 inch height, or £ inch below it, or the amount the waist gains 
for each size breast. As in this case only one column is to be accounted for, add 
1 1 inch to 33^, which gives a 34! inch waist for a 39 breast, 5 feet 10 inches 
tall, as the increase of width and decrease of height partake of the normal. 

Line 11, the depths of scye for the slender form by heights and widths, as 
explained in Table 1 1. 

Line 12, the blade measures corresponding to the width quantity, as 
explained in Table 12. 

Line 13, the front shoulders by height and width, as explained in Table 13. 

Line 14, the over-shoulder measures by heights and widths, as explained in 
Table 14. 

Line 15, the upper-shoulder measures by heights and widths, as explained in 
Table 25. 

Line 16, the lower-shoulder measures by widths only, as per Table 26. 

Lines 17, 18, 19 and 20 are the anatomical divisions corresponding to the 
heights given, as explained in Table 30. They give the lengths to natural waist, 
seat, small knee and lower calf, respectively. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 81 



THE SLEEVE. 



"THE sleeve problem is an interesting and at the same time an intricate one. 

The length of the sleeve is, of course, governed by the length of the arm, 
and the length of the latter bears a relation to the total height of the body. 

The basis from which we can reason most satisfactorily is the distance from 
finger tip to finger tip when the arms are raised from the sides of the body to a 
horizontal position. In other words, if a person stands against a wall and places 
the tip of the middle finger of the left hand at a certain point, and while still 
holding that finger as stated places the tip of the middle finger of the right hand 
as far from the left as he can reach without straining, while both hands are even 
with the shoulders, the distance thus spanned will average 2 to 3 inches more 
than the total height. This apparently would give the length of the sleeve, if the 
length of the hand were deducted, and so it would if the arms were always carried 
in that position ; but as that is not the case, more length must be gained to 
correspond to the amount that is lost in angles when the arms are bent. 
This has been realized in a general way by tailors of all times, and to gain the 
loss of these angles the sleeve length has always been taken with the elbow bent 
to describe a right angle. 

If a tape is passed over the back and the ends held in each hand, while the 
arms are held straight in front of the person at the height of the shoulder, the tape 
will not register any increase over the tip-to-tip measurement if it passes under 
the arms. This is the inside measurement. But if the arms are bent at a rieht 
angle and the tape is passed outside of the elbow bend, it will require the letting 
out of the tape about 6 inches. This is the outside measurement. As the arms 
assume the bent position in almost everything we do, even in writing, we have the 
outside measurement to deal with when figuring on the length of the sleeve. 

Figuring from the height as a basis, we have the tip-to-tip span, which is 
3 inches greater than the height, and a provision for angles of 6 inches to 
add to the height, or 9 inches in all, added to the height as a basis for our sleeve 
length. This includes the entire length of the hand to the tips of the fingers. 

The foregoing deals only with the dimensions of the body direct and allow- 
ances for positions assumed, but does not deal with the losses met with in the 
process of manufacture, such as for seams and ease. 



82 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE NORMAL SLEEVE. 



TABLE 34. 

'"PHIS table exemplifies and gives the results of the above deductions in the fol- 
■ lowing manner, as applied to the normal sleeve : 

Line i, the breast sizes as per Table 31. 

Line 2, the corresponding heights for average forms in feet and inches. 

Line 3, the same heights reduced to inches. 

Line 4 has added 3 inches to the total height, which, as explained above, is 
usually the amount that the height is less than the measurement from finger- 
tip to finger-tip. 

Line 5 gives 6 inches additional to the quantities of Line 4, which provide 
for the outside measurements of angles. 

Line 6 gives the half-quantities of Line 5. These quantities are the measures 
from the center of the back to the tip of the finger of the arm measured, and 
while they include the length of the hand as given we now approach the sleeve 
length as dealt with in tailoring, as we only prepare our pattern for one side and 
gain the two sides by cutting the cloth double. 

Line 7 has deducted from Line 6 the lengths of the hand less \\ inch in this 
manner. The length from the tip of the finger to the wrist joint is \ of the total 
height (or one head), but as a sleeve that only comes to the wrist is too short, as 
all tailors can testify, more length must be gained, hence this line has \\ inch 
added after the length to the wrist has been deducted. 

Example: — 5 feet 8 equals 68 inches. To this add 9 inches (3 inches for 
the excess of length of the outstretched arms over the height, and 6 for the 
outside measurements of the angles), making in all J J inches. One-half of JJ is 
38^. Deduct £ of the height, as per Line 20 of Table 31, or 85 inches, from 38^, 
leaving 30 inches as the length from the center of the back to the wrist. To 
extend the length from the wrist to the hand, add i^ inch, as explained in this 
connection and you have the result, 31^ inches, as per Line 7 of this table. 

Line 8 gives 1 inch added for seams and makeup to the quantity gained in 
taking the measure, as per Line 7. This 1 inch includes all additions for the 
finished pattern and will correspond to the quantities given in Table 31 = 

It may be well here to refer to what seems to many an eccentricity of 
nature which gives to people of the same height varying lengths of arms. The fact 
is that the length of the arm from the center of the back to the tips of the fingers 
is, approximately, the same for all people of the same height ; but if a slender 
man, measuring a certain amount from the back center to the tips, should take on 
flesh, that same measurement would not diminish, but the back would widen at 
the expense of the length of the arm from the shoulders down. Therefore the 
outseam measurement would remain the same, but the forearm measurement 
would decrease. This is the reason why attempts at laying down corresponding 
proportions for both the inside and outside sleeve lengths have always been found 
unsatisfactory. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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84 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



SLEEVES FOR CORPULENT FORMS. 



AS the outseam length of sleeves corresponds to the height, the method as 
explained in the previous table is also applicable to corpulent forms. 

TABLE 35 

fMVES lengths corresponding to the quantities in Table 32 as follows : 

Line 1, the breast sizes, as per Table 32. 

Line 2, the heights corresponding in feet and inches. 

Line 3, the sleeve lengths as taken without additions for make-up. 

Line 4, the total lengths for the corpulent form with all additions for seams 
and make-up. 

When the degree of corpulency is extreme the decrease in height will give a 
decreased length of sleeve. 

SLEEVES FOR SLENDER FORMS. 



HTHE outside length of the sleeve for a slender form is also relative to the 
height of the subject, and, therefore, is obtained as explained in the general 
remarks preceding and in Table 34. The quantities given herewith will corre- 
spond to those in Table 33. 

TABLE 36. 

Line 1, the breast sizes as per Table 33. 

Line 2, the heights corresponding to the above breast sizes for the slender 
forms. 

Line 3, the sleeve lengths as taken without additions. 

Line 4, an addition of 1 inch for seams and make-up as explained in connec- 
tion with Table 34. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



85 



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36 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

FOREARM LENGTH OF SLEEVES. 



A' 



S many cutters prefer to use the forearm, or underarm, length of sleeves, 
there are given herewith lengths and explanations of how to obtain them 
according to the class or type of forms to which the sleeves apply. 

Refer back to Plate i, accompanying Table 30, in which is given the ana- 
tomical sectional divisions of the human body. As will be noticed, the inside 
length of the arm and hand combined extends over three sections of the body, as 
from Line 2 to Line 5 in normal forms. We deduct one section, or head, to 
the wrist, and have two sections remaining, to which we have to add ij inch, as 
explained for Table 34. This leaves the forearm length two sections (as per Line 
20, Table 31) plus 1^ inch for normal forms. 

NORMAL. 



TABLE 37. 

Line 1, the normal breast sizes. 
Line 2, the heights corresponding. 

Line 3, the forearm lengths for normal forms, which are composed of two 
sections of lengths of the body plus i^ inch. 



CORPULENT. 



I 



T was made plain in introducting the subject of sleeves that in corpulent forms 

the underarm length decreases as the back width increases. The decrease is 
nearly equal to one-fourth the degree of corpulency, to correspond to the quanti- 
ties given in Table 32, in which the triple degree of corpulency (or 3 inches) is 
used. One-fourth would be f inch, which is the amount of the decrease given in 
the table accompanying. 

TABLE 38. 

Line 1, the corpulent breast sizes. 

Line 2, the heights corresponding. 

Line 3, the forearm lengths of sleeve, which in this case are two sections of 
length plus i£ inch, less one-fourth the degree of corpulency, or f inch. 

SLENDER. 



AN increased forearm length is the natural accompaniment of the slender form, 
as the decreased widths and increased heights mean a narrower back and a 
relatively larger underarm length to maintain the total quantity. The increase 
may be safely made one-fourth the degree of slenderness, or the opposite of cor- 
pulency. 

TABLE 39. 

Line 1, the slender breast sizes. 

Line 2, the corresponding heights. 

Line 3, the forearm lengths plus i^ inch plus one-fourth of the triple degree 
of slenderness, or f inch in this case. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



87 





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88 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

VESTS. 

Lengths and Openings. 



Zl SATISFACTORY vest length and opening based on something tangible will 
prove a welcome innovation to cutters and designers, whether for use in 
retail practice in gaining a certain length when an uncertain measure is given, or 
for a working principle when a set of vest patterns is to be produced. Arbitrary 
lengths, even when fairly satisfactory, do not mean anything, and always leave an 
element of doubt as to whether all requirements have been fully met. Neither 
height nor width alone will give a length flexible enough for different sizes of 
men of varying heights. As vest lengths partake of both, one element must 
modify the other. 

The rule here given is as simple as it is scientific and is best expressed in the 
following couplet : 

One-fourth the height and one-fourth of the breast, 
When added together, give the length of the vest. 
The length gained in this manner includes all additions for seams and mak- 
ing up ; but should the customers of a certain trade be educated by past practice 
to a longer or a shorter vest, a small arbitrary quantity may either be added 
to or deducted from the result obtained as explained. 

NORMAL. 



TABLE 40. 

Line i, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the same heights in inches. 

Line 3, one-fourth the above heights in inches. 

Line 4, the breast sizes for normal forms. 

Line 5, one-fourth the breast sizes. 

Line 6, the results of adding Lines 3 and 5, which are the full lengths of 
vests corresponding to the heights and widths given. 

Line 7, the openings, which are one-half of the lengths given in Line 6 less 1 
inch. This amount may be more or less to gain the opening desired, as fashions 
change from season to season. 

When the waist increases it requires an additional length to go over the 
rounded surface of such forms. This increase will take care of itself if the lengths, 
as here given, are applied on a direct line, as in the normal. The waist increase 
extending beyond the direct line will give a curving line to the front, which, 
together with the continuation of the bottom slant in front of the direct line, will 
give the additional quantity needed. 

The foregoing will meet all ordinary requirements, even when the waist size 
enters in as an element of length ; but those who prefer to employ the waist ele- 
ment as a factor in determining vest lengths can, instead of one-fourth breast, use 
one-eighth breast and for the quantity lost substitute one-eighth waist. This will 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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- 



90 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



give a slight decrease in the sizes where the waist is less than the breast and a 
corresponding increase when the waist is larger than the breast. 

The flexibility gained, however, is hardly in proportion to the increased 
labor it involves in figuring vest lengths. 



CORPULENT. 



TABLE 41. 

FHE quantities in this table correspond to those given in Table 32, which are 
for the corpulent sizes. The method of gaining the results is the same as 
explained in the previous table. 

Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the heights in inches. 

Line 3, one-fourth of the heights. 

Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the above heights for the degree of 
corpulency given in Table 32. 

Line 5, one-fourth of the breast sizes. 

Line 6, the full lengths gained by adding one-fourth height in Line 3 to one- 
fourth of breast in Line 5, and gives the full lengths with additions included. 

Line 7, the openings corresponding to the lengths, which are one-half the 
lengths less 1 inch, and may be made more or less. 

SLENDER. 



TABLE 42. 

THE heights and widths in this table are the same as those given in Table ^ 
for the slender forms. They are gained as explained in Table 40. 
Line 1, the heights in feet and inches. 
Line 2, the heights in inches. 
Line 3, one-fourth of the heights. 

Line 4, the breast sizes corresponding to the above heights for the slender 
forms. 

Line 5, one-fourth the breast sizes. 

Line 6, the full lengths gained from one-fourth of the height in Line 3 and 
one-fourth of the breast sizes in Line 5. 

Line 7, the openings corresponding to the above lengths, which are gained 
from one-half the lengths less 1 inch, but can be made more or less to suit con- 
ditions. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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92 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



TROUSERS. 

General Remarks. 



OERHAPS the most difficult part of the human body, considered from the 
standpoint of proportions, is that part with which the tailor has to deal in 
making trousers ; at least, rules given in the past, intended as guides, have never 
corresponded to the surface development of that part. 

Nature has in all cases, excepting those caused by accident or deformity, 
framed certain laws. She has classified these cases into types, but those who 
have attempted to codify her laws have disregarded her classifications. 

While exceptions to these laws exist, they do not prove that the laws of 
nature are invalidated ; in fact, one simple rule which proves effective in determin- 
ing leg lengths is known to almost every purchaser of ready-made clothing; 
namely, holding the legs of the trousers out at arm's length. While we do 
not wish to dwell on this particular phase, it is referred to as a suggestion of the 
relation between the arm and leg lengths, which is recognized by laymen. It 
might be stated that the method could be used to advantage if it were applied 
scientifically. The truth it implies is that relative proportions are a fact, and that 
the laws governing them are well defined. Results gained by observing them are 
pretty near correct. Trouble results only when we make arbitrary rules contrary 
to the needs of the conditions existing. 

The average man is one type, and the rules governing the leg lengths of this 
type do not apply directly to the corpulent, nor to the slender types, which are 
governed by rules applicable only to those types. 

But let us get down to actual measurements, behind which no rules can go. 
Out of a group of 200 normal men an average height of 68-^ inches was found, for 
which height an average leg length of 32^ inches resulted, or a double leg length of 
64H inches. Out of a group of corpulent forms, with a waist measurement ranging 
from 3 inches up to 7 inches larger than proportionate, the heights averaged 68f 
inches and the double leg length 6of inches. A similar number of slender men with 
waist sizes less than normal averaged 68^ inches height and 66 T %- inches double 
leg length. This goes to prove that the average normal double leg length is 
approximately 4 inches less than the height, while in the corpulent it is 8 inches 
less and in the slender forms 2 inches less, increased or decreased by the degree of 
corpulency or slenderness existing. This again suggests that the bone structure 
does not change as the form evolves from one type into another, and that the 
difference in types is really only a matter of increased width quantities. As width 
is gained, or, in other words, flesh taken on, the increase of width is made at the 
expense of the leg length, which is made up in the increase of the waist rise. 

Therefore, in the strictly normal type, the leg length and waist rise partake 
only of the height quantity ; but just as soon as width is gained, width will 
have to be taken into consideration. 



Learn to swim instead of devoting 
all your energy to find a suitable life 
preserver ... . 



94 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

AVERAGE TROUSERS DIMENSIONS. 

TABLE 43. 

'"THIS table contains average (not normal) trousers dimensions. The strictly 
normal form is best expressed by the quantities in the Checking Column. 

Litie i, the checking numbers each way from Column 0. 

Line 2, the height of averages in feet and incheSj as per Table 31. 

Line 3, the above heights in inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights. 

Line 5, the breast sizes as a guide to the amount of corpulency dealt with. 

Line 6, the average Avaist sizes, as per Table 31. 

All the above quantities are the same as given in Table 3. 

Line 7 has the seat sizes, which are gained in the following manner: 

For the Checking Column, 0, make the seat 1 inch larger than the breast 
size, or 39 inches. 

Above the Checking Column, add the number in the top line to 39, and 
place the result in the same column as the number in the top line is located. 

As the seat is found to gain in the excessively large sizes, \\ inch instead of 
1 inch has been added to each column above the 6 feet height, while below it 
all are held at even inches. 

Line 8 is \ inch for each column above the Checking Column. It also 
represents \ inch for each inch the waist has gained upon the breast, above the 
normal difference found in Column 0. The quantities given below the Checking 
Column are \ inch for each column. Above the Checking Column they represent 
\ inch for each inch the waist has gained upon the breast above the normal 
difference found in Column 0. 

Line 9, inseam lengths on the basis of 2 inches less than the half-height ; that 
is, the double leg-length is 4 inches less than the total height, as explained in the 
general remarks. 

Line 10, the leg-lengths for the sizes in which the increased width quantities 
have decreased the .length quantities, as referred to in. the general remarks. 
The amount of decreased length is gained by deducting the quantity in Line 8. 

Line 11 gives the waist rises by adding 2 inches (or the amount the normal 
leg-length is less than the half-height) to one section, or \ of the total height cor- 
responding (as per Line 30 in Table 31). To this \ height plus 2 inches, add 
\ inch for each inch the waist has gained on the breast from the normal quantity, 
as per the quantities above the Checking Column of Line 8. Below the Check- 
ing Column, find the \ total height plus 2 inches as above, but instead of adding, 
as above, deduct from the quantities gained the \ inch for each number in the top 
line. This gives the side rise as shown in this line. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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09 



96 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



Example : The normal, 5 feet 8 : 

One head.... :.. 8£ inches 

2 inches added io£ inches 

As the quantities in this column are normal, there is no addition or reduc- 
tion made from this amount in this table. The same height in column 14 would 
look like this : 

One head 8 J inches 

Addition ■ 2 inches 

Total io£ inches 

The breast is 50, for which the waist would be 46 for the purpose of calcula- 
tion, but the waist given is 52, hence a gain of 6 inches. { inch for each inch 
gain makes i£ inch. This added to the io£ inches makes 12 inches, as shown. 
Below the Checking Column. 
Example: — 5 feet 4 inches: 

One head 8 inches 

Addition 2 inches 

Total 10 inches 

Deduct the amount in Line 8, which is | inch, leaving 9.^ inches, as shown. 
Line 12 gives the front rises in the corpulent sizes by adding to the front 
above the side rise as much as the amount given in Line 8. 

Line 13 gives the basis for knee widths. They are gained from one-fourth 
height and one-fourth seat less 7 inches. 

By making the stationary quantity more or less, a greater or less width is 
gained. 

Line 14 gives the basis for bottom widths, which may be increased or 
decreased. They are gained from one-half the knee plus 7 inches. The stationary 
quantity if increased or decreased will give more or less bottom width as desired. 
The front rise, as per Line 12, may approximately be gained by taking the 
half-height, the full waist and the full seat and dividing the total by a given num- 
ber, which may be more or less. The division is not important as long as the 
quantity divided partakes of all of the elements that go to make up the waist rise. 
If the sum of the half-height, the full waist and the full seat measure is divided 
by 11 it will give quantities slightly less than those given in this table, while if it is 
divided by 10 it becomes slightly more. This suggests a ready rule by which to 
gain the front rise of trousers that may be used to suit individual ideas. 

If Table 43 is used as a manufacturing list for stock, it is well to make each 
size in several leg-lengths and to give the rise corresponding to each leg-length 
as given in the table accompanying. 

Example: — If 39 seat and 34 waist are to be made into 4 lengths besides 
the average length of 32 inches, make two lengths each side of it, as 31, 31 A, 32A 
and t,t„ as per Column and Columns 1 and 2 each side of it. Then give the 
waist rise corresponding to the lengths as follows : 

Length 31 Rise 10 

" 3i* " ioi 

" 32 " . io£ 

" 32^ " iof 

" 33 " 11 

The method may be applied to each size, while the quantity itself may vary 
to suit the condition. 



Proportions are not a substitute for 
common sense, but they mix splen- 
didly with it 



98 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



CORPULENT TROUSERS DIMENSIONS. 



Vl/E referred to the average double leg-length of corpulent men as being, 
approximately, 8 inches less than the full height. (Loss of leg length in 
corpulency is shown in Plate 2.) The accompanying table gives the averages of 
corpulents, which, however, begin with a very small degree of corpulency. This 
modifies the rule in the smaller sizes, and does not give the full expression to 
it until the larger sizes are reached ; but it even exceeds the rule in the extremely 
large sizes. 

TABLE 44. 

Line 1, the Checking Numbers of the columns each way from Column 0. 

Line 2, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights in inches. , 

Line 5, the breast sizes corresponding to the heights, as per Table 32. 

Line 6, the waist sizes, as per Table 32. 

Line 7 gives the seat sizes by adding the quantity in the top line to the 
seat size in the Checking Column, for the sizes above the Checking Column, 
and reduces from the same checking quantity the amount in the top line 
below the Checking Column. 

Line 8 gives \ inch for each inch of difference between the breast and the 
waist is less than the difference in the Checking Column, as explained for aver- 
ages in the preceding table. 

Li?ie 9 gives the same lengths (2 inches less than the half-height) as 
in the Table of Averaees. 

o 

Line 10 gives the side-waist rises, which are gained in the same manner as 
explained for Line 1 1 of the previous table, or by adding 2 inches to one section, 
or I of the total height. To this quantity add \ inch for each inch the waist has 
gained on the breast above the normal quantity. 

Line 1 1 gives the leg-lengths for corpulent figures, which are governed by 
the degree of corpulency or amount of flesh taken on. Line 8 gives the 
relative amount of corpulency, and when the quantities it contains are deducted 
from the average leg-lengths in Line 9, the corpulent leg-lengths as given in this 
line are the results. 

Line 12 gives the corpulent front-rises, which are gained by adding the 
relative degree of corpulency of Line 8 to the side-rise of Line 10. 

Line 13 gives the corpulent basis for knee-widths from one-fourth height and 
one-fourth seat less 7 inches. The latter figure is the regulator, and by making 
the stationary quantity more or less, more or less width is gained, as may be 
desired. »-. V;- j 

Line 14 is the corpulent basis for the bottom widths. It is gained from 
one-half the knee size plus 7 inches. If this addition is increased? it will give 
more bottom width ; if decreased, less. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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r&x 


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NO 
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t^x" 


NO 


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en 


en 

NO 


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n3\ 


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—J CJ1 
= '=» 


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CD 


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a&5* 


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irfa 



100 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



SLENDER TROUSERS DIMENSIONS. 



'THE safeguard to which we invariably fall back is formed of the actual measure- 
ments of living people. These, when divided into their respective classes 
or types, give a tangible foundation to figure from. As briefly referred to at the 
beginning of the remarks on trousers, the measures of slender forms have given 
us an average of 66 T 4 „ inches double leg length, as against a total height of 6S t 5 q 
inches, or approximately a difference of 2 inches, or an inseam length of each leg 
of 1 inch less than the half-height. (Increase of leg-length in slender forms is 
shown on Plate 3.) This is used as a basis, and the increasing waist, which is a 
small quantity in this class, modifies the length and waist rise on the same 
principle as before. 

TABLE 45. 

Line 1, the checking numbers each way from Column 0. 

Line 2, the slender heights in feet and inches, as per Table 33. 

Line 3, the heights in inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 5, the breast sizes corresponding to the slender heights. 

Lined, the waist sizes for slender forms, as per Table 33. 

Line 7, the seat sizes by adding the quantity in the top line to the seat sizes 
in the Checking Column, for all sizes above the Checking Column, and deducting 
it from the same seat size for all sizes below the Checking Column. 

Line 8 gives \ inch for each inch the waist has gained above the normal, as 
per Column 0. 

Line 9, the average inseam lengths for slender forms, which are 1 inch less 
than the half-height. 

Line 10, the average waist rises for slender forms, which are gained in the 
same manner as explained for Line 1 1 of Table 43, except that only 1 inch, 
instead of 2 inches, is added to the \ height. The other inch has been taken up 
by the leg-length, which is in slender forms that amount longer than in normal. 

Line 11, the inseam lengths modified by the increases in the waist. They 
are gained by deducting the index figures in Line 8 from the average inseam 
lengths in Line 9. 

Line 12, the waist rises as emphasized by the increased waist. They are 
gained by adding the index figures in Line 8 to the waist rises in Line 10. 

Line 13, the basis for knee sizes, slender forms, gained from one-fourth 
height and one-fourth seat, less 7 inches. The latter quantity may be more or less. 

Line 14, the basis for the bottom widths is one-half of the knee width plus 7 
inches, more or less, 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



101 





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to 




M 


O 


VO 




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ON 


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p 

VI 

0> 

cn 

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(T) 
3 
Q. 

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cr 
o 
i-t- 

o 

3 

0. 
ol 

3* 


cn 

n> 
w 
>-•-> 

o 

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C/l 

nT 

ro 
-c 

?r 

ns 
n> 
cn 

CD 


3 

Cn" 

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cn 
n> 

ro 

3 

3" 

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cn_ 
ts" 
n> 

O. 

cr 

H. 
cn' 

3" 

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-i 

cn 


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3 
C71 

n> 

3 

3 

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1/1 
O 

St 

n> 
ti- 
er 
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7. 
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t> 

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> 
a 



102 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



BREECHES DIMENSIONS. 



XHE foundation principles of breeches must be the same as those of trousers, 
as breeches cover, at least partly, the same parts as do the trousers. The 
length quantities are, therefore, easily gained from the lengths of trousers. The 
width quantities, being subject to many varying conditions, do not lend them- 
selves so readily to the dictates of rules, as do the lengths, yet results that will be 
approximate enough to serve as excellent guides can be gained in the manner 
about to be explained. 

TABLE 46. 

Line i, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the average waist sizes. 

Line 3, average seat sizes. 

Line 4, average waist side-rise, to which more front-rise may be added, when 
corpulency demands it, as was explained for Line 12 of Tables 43 and 44. 

Line 5, the full length inseams for average trousers. 

Line 6, the lengths to the knee for breeches, which being one-half of the 
inseam lengths, provide for an addition of about 2 inches above the lengths as 
taken. This addition may be more or less, but as 1 inch is usually lost in knee 
fullness, only 1 inch remains to give the blousing effect. 

Line 7, the lengths to the small knee, gained by adding 2\ inches to the knee 
lengths. 

Line 8, the lengths to the calf, \ of the half-inseam plus 1 inch. 

Line 9, the lengths to the lower calf, which from the calf are the continua- 
tions, one-third of the half-inseam will give a satisfactory average. 

The next four lines hold the width quantities. These have been given as 
taken and additions for seams are to be made. The reason we have varied from 
the rule of including all additions is that these proportions will often be used for 
coachmen's stockinette breeches, to which no additions are made, owing to the 
elasticity of the material. 

Line 10, the bent-knee sizes, which are composed of -^ height and \ seat 
plus \ inch. This does not include additions for seams. The stationary quantity 
(4 inch) can be made more or less, to suit local conditions. 

Line 11, the small knee, which is gained from ^ height plus T 3 ^- seat plus 2 
inches. The latter quantity may be increased or decreased to suit. Additions for 
seams to be made. 

Line 12, the calf: -^height and \ seat plus \ inch, but may be more or 
less. Additions for seams to be made. 

Line 13, the lower calf : -^ height and \ seat less 1 inch, but may be more 
or less. Additions for seams to be made. 

The widths in this table are intended to be "on the safe side" by being 
ample. As muscularly developed people require greater width quantities than do 
those of slender build, the elements of which the widths are composed have 
been selected with a view to meeting the condition encountered; yet the 
quantities given may be modified to meet different ideas of what they should be, 
as has been suggested. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



103 



Widths 



Lengths 



> 



CX3 


r«0 


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U) 


s 

»>j\ 


CO 


oo 


■**> 


Oo 


OB 


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oo 


en 




CO 




^? 




no 


NO 


OO 


4^ 


ho 

OO 


-^ 


CO 


ro 
oo 


— en 




CO 


CO 


!3 


Co 


en 


NO 


—j 




ro 

CD 


CO 


CO 
CO 


ISO 
CD 


r-o en 
3" ^* 




CO 


4^C 




^ 


no 
en 

Oo v - 


NO 






ho 

CO 


CO 


CO 


CO 


Cju en 
5* p^ 




CO 


CO 


IS3 




er» 


NO 




en 


CO 


CO 


CO 

en 


CO 


-C=» C71 




o^c 


CO 


no 


5* 


an 


NO 


—J 


en 


CO 


CO 


CO 

oo 


CO 


en en 




^ 




CO 


en 


NO 

an 


NO 


OO 


en 

r\S<7 


CO 


= 


CO 

—4 


CO 
NO 


C73 en 




ni^ 




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en 


NO 

— o. 

62^C 


NO 

665? 


OO 


en 


CO 


-iix 


CO 

oo 


eo 

CO 


— I en 




^ 


S 
^ 


CO 

5^0 


en 


NO 


NO 
NO 


oo 
rva\ 


OO 


CO 

N-3 


fe-C 


Co 
CD 


eo 


CO en 




— 


en 


CO 


<=-? 


NO 

—J 


NO 
NO 

rv5\ 


oo 


OO 


CO 

ro 


^S- 


-p* 


eo 
en 


co en 




1^1 


en 




en 


NO 


NO 
NO 


CO 


OO 


CO 
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= 


-p* 


eo 

— ^ 


cS en 




**; 


en 






NO 

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6^ 


NO 

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eo 




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CO 


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rso 


bo 


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Sfe-c 


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fee 


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« 

H 

4- 
05 



104 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



READY REFERENCE TABLES. 



IN the next few tables are quantities for ready reference. No claim to infalli- 
bility is made for them. As they cover the entire range of types, they 
overlap, as it were, and therefore only approximate correctness. In cases where 
direct quantities determine the final result, the quantities gained are accurate. 

WAIST SIZES FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



TABLE 47. 



jPHIS table is the essence of the waist sizes, boiled down for ready reference 

from the tables of all types treated. The result, under the circumstances, 

cannot be expected to do any more than approximate the quantity desired to be 

found; but as it will do this and not require any figuring, it will commend itself to 

many as a time-saver. 

The top line gives the heights. 

The column to the right gives the breast sizes. 

The figure directly under the height is the waist size corresponding to the breast 
size in the same horizontal line. 

The waist sizes are modified or emphasized in a relative degree to the height 
and width quantities of which they partake. 

Example: — The waist for a 42 breast of 5 feet 5 inches in height is found in 
the same line as the breast, directly under the height dealt with, and is \2\ inches 
in this case. 

Again : — A 42 breast of 6 feet in height gives 39^ inches. The gain in height 
has caused a loss in width. 

Approximate waist sizes for any height and width can be gained in the same 
way. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



105 



TABLE -47. 



5 ft. 


5 It. 
tin. 


5 ft. 
2 In. 


5 ft. 

3 in. 


5 ft. 
4 in. 


5 ft. 
5 in. 


5 ft, 

6 in. 


5 ft. 
7 in. 


5 ft, 
8 in. 


5 ft. 

9 in. 


5 ft. 
10 in. 


5 it. 
II in. 


6 ft. 


6 ft. 
lin. 


eft, 

2 in, 


6 ft. 
3 in. 


6 ft. 
4 in. 


6 ft. 

5 in. 


6 ft. 

6 in. 


eft. 

Tin. 


6 ft, 

8 in. 


BREMT 
SIZES 


59 


58% 


57% 


56% 


55% 


54% 


53% 


52% 


52 


si£ 


51 


50% 


50 


49% 


49 


48% 


48 


47^ 


47 


46 £ 


46 


50 


57 


56% 


55% 


54% 


54 


53% 


52% 


51% 


51 


504 


49% 


49% 


48% 


48% 


47% 


47^ 


46 % 


46^ 


45% 


454 


44% 


49 


55% 


55 


54% 


54 


53% 


52 


51% 


50% 


49% 


49 


48^ 


48 


47% 


47 


46 '4 


46 


M 


45 


44^ 


44 


43'4 


48 


53% 


53% 


52% 


52% 


51% 


51% 


50% 


49 3 4 


49% 


48% 


47% 


46% 


464 


45% 


45% 


44% 


44 J£ 


43*4 


43% 


n% 


42^ 


47 


52 


51% 


51 


50% 


50 


49% 


48% 


48 


47^ 


46*4 


46 


45^ 


45 


44^ 


44 


43% 


43 


42^ 


42 


41% 


41% 


46 


50% 


49% 


49% 


48% 


48^ 


47% 


47% 


46% 


46% 


45% 


45% 


44% 


43% 


43% 


42% 


42^ 


41% 


4I'4 


41 


40% 


40% 


45 


48% 


48 


47% 


47 


46'i 


46 


45% 


45 


44% 


44 


43^ 


43 


42'4 


42 


41% 


41 


40^ 


404 


40 


39*4 


39^ 


44 


46% 


46% 


45% 


45% 


44^ 


44% 


43% 


43% 


42% 


42% 


41% 


41% 


40% 


40% 


40 


39% 


39^ 


39% 


39 


38% 


lt% 


43 


45 


44% 


44 


43% 


43 


42^ 


42 


41% 


41 


40% 


40% 


40 


39 £ 


39 


38^ 


38% 


38 


37% 


37^ 


37% 


37 


42 


43% 


42% 


42% 


41% 


41/4 


40% 


40% 


39% 


39/4 


39 


38% 


3l£ 


37^ 


37^ 


37 


36% 


36^ 


364 


36 


35% 


35% 


41 


41% 


41 


40% 


40 


III 


39 


38% 


38 


37^ 


37% 


36% 


36% 


36 


35% 


35^ 


35% 


35 


34% 


34/ 2 


34% 




40 


39 % 


39% 


38% 


38% 


37% 


37% 


36% 


36% 


35% 


35% 


35 


34% 


34^ 


34X4 


34 


33% 


33^ 


33% 


33 






39 


38 


37'i 


37 


36^ 


36 


35% 


35 


34^ 


34 


33% 


33% 


33X 


33 


32% 


32% 


32% 


32 


31% 








38 


36% 


36^ 


35% 


35% 


34^ 


34% 


33% 


33% 


33 


32% 


32% 


32% 


32 


31% 


31% 


31% 


31 


30% 








37 


35^ 


35 


34^ 


34 


33^ 


33 


32/2 


32% 


32 


31% 


l\% 


3lX 


31 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30 










36 


34% 


33% 


33 % 


32 3 4 


32% 


\\% 


31% 


31% 


31 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30 


29% 


29% 


294 


29 










35 


33 


32 £ 


32 


31% 


31 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30 


29% 


29/ 2 


29% 


29 


28^ 


28^ 


28% 


28 










34 


31% 


3lX 


30% 


30% 


30 


29% 


29^ 


29% 


29 


28% 


28% 


28^ 


28 


27^ 


27% 


27% 












33 


30^ 


30 


29 1 


29% 


29 


28% 


28 1 


28% 


28 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27 


26% 


26%a 


26% 












32 


29X 


28^ 


111 


28% 


28 


27% 


111 


27% 


27 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26 


25% 


25^ 


25% 












31 
30 


28 


27% 


111 


111 


27 


26^4 


111 


26% 


26 


3/ 

25/4 


25% 


25% 


25 


24% 


24^ 


24% 













106 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



SCYE DEPTH, FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



TABLE 48. 



PHIS table gives the direct quantities that make up the scye depth when the 

shoulder formation is normal. For cases of square or sloping shoulders, see 
the chapter on "Types of Forms' 1 ' 1 to follow. 

The top line gives the heights. 

The column to the right gives the breast sizes. 

The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt 
with is the scye depth corresponding, with all additions included. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



107 



TABLE 48. 



5 ft. 


5 ft. 

1 in. 


5 ft. 
2 in. 


5 ft. 
3 in. 


5 ft. 

4 in. 


5 ft. 
5 in. 


5 ft. 

6 |n. 


5 ft. 

7 In. 


5 ft. 
8 in, 


5 ft. 
9 in, 


5 ft. 

10 in. 


5 ft. 
II in. 


6 ft. 


6 ft. 
lin, 


6 ft. 
2 in. 


6<t, 
3 In, 


6 ft. 

4 in. 


fill. 

5 In. 


5 ft. 

6 in. 


6 ft. 
Tin. 


6 ft. 
Bin. 


BREAST 
5IZE.5 


10% 


I0/J6 


10% 


10% 


II 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


If* 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


\\% 


Ill 


11% 


11% 


12 


50 


io% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


io% 


io£ 


II 


ll£ 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


III 


11% 


4g 


10* 


10% 


it% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


II 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


\l% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


48 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10* 


10^ 


10% 


io£ 


II 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


47 


io% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


11 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


46 


11% 


10% 


io.X 


10% 


io% 


10% 


10/2 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10 16 


10 8 


IK, 

10% 


II 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


45 


10 


10^6 


10% 


io% 


ioX 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


II 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


44 


9% 


9% 


10 


ioX 


io% 


10% 


ioX 


10% 


10/6 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


II 


11% 


11% 


43 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


10 


10% 


10% 


1046 


10% 


10% 


I0 3 8 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


11% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


II 


42 


9 s / 8 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


g'% 


10 


10% 


10* 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


io 7 ^ 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


41 


9 % 


a 


9% 


9% 


9% 


g% 


9% 


9% 


10 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


40 


9 3 % 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9 5 /a 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


946 


10 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


39 


9 '4 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9 y 6 


9% 


9^e 


9% 


1% 


9% 


9% 


10 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10K 


10% 


10% 


10% 


10% 


38 


9'a 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9.X 


9 5 /a 


9% 


9% 


g% 


9% 


%% 


10 


10% 


10 X 


10% 


10X 


10% 


10% 


37 


9 


9%* 


9% 


9% 


9^4 


9 % 


9% 


9%e 


9% 


9% 


9^ 


i'/ 

94 


9% 


„ l3 / 

g/6 


9% 


g% 


10 


ior* 


io'/ 8 


10% 


10 % 


36 


8% 


a 


9 


g% 


1J6 


9 % 6 


9X 


i% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


g% 


il 


9/% 


9% 


9% 


10 


10% 


10% 


35 


8 3 4 


13/ 

84 


8 7 % 


8 % 


9 


9 % 6 


g% 


9% 


9X 


9^6 


9% 


9% 


9% 


g% 


%% 


9% 


\% 


9% 


9% 


9^% 


10 


34 


8% 


8% 


8% 


8% 


8% 


8% 


9 


9% 


9/s 


1% 


9% 


9% 


g% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 8 


9% 


9* 


9'% 


9% 


33 


8'% 


8% 


1% 


1% 


8% 


8% 


8%8 


8% 


9 


9% 


9/s 


9% 


9% 


9 S /a 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


g^ 


9% 


g% 


32 


1% 


a 


8/6 


a 


8 5 ^ 


8% 


8/4 


8% 


l% 


B/fc 


9 


9%e 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


9% 


g% 


9% 


9% 


31 


a 


8^6 


8% 


8% 


8/2 


8% 


1% 


a 


8% 


8^6 


8/8* 


8% 


9 


9% 


\% 


9% 


9% 


9/8 


g% 


9% 


9% 


30 



108 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE BLADE. 



IZES ARE NOT GIVEN IN THIS CONNECTION, AS THEY PARTAKE OF WIDTH ONLY. 

THE FRONT SHOULDER MEASURE FOR ALL 
HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



TABLE 49. 

'"THIS table is subject to the same rules as the scye quantities and the same 

deviations should be observed. 

As the quantities run into fractions of twenty-fourths, they are apparently 
complicated, but as every third column makes a gain of |- inch, these columns, con- 
taining the fractions encountered in ordinary practice, are separated by lines in 
order easily to distinguish them from the rest. The column to the right of any of 
the separated columns shows a difference of a little more than -fe inch, and the 
column to the left of any of the separated columns a little less than j\ inch, 
than the quantities in the separated columns themselves. With this explanation 
the table can be easily handled. 

The top line gives the heights. 

The column to the right gives the breast sizes. 

The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt 
with is the front shotilder measure corresponding, with all additions included. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



109 



TABLE 49. 



5 ft. 


5 ft. 
1 in. 


5 ft. 
2 in. 


5 ft. 

3 in. 


5 ft. 

4 in. 


5 ft. 

Sin. 


5 ft, 

6 in. 


5 11. 

7 in. 


5 ft. 

8 in. 


5 ft. 

9 in, 


5 ft. 

10 In. 


IT 
II in. 


est. 


6 ft. 
lin. 


B ft. 

2 in, 


6 ft. 
3 in. 


6 ft. 

4 in, 


6 ft. 

5 in. 


6 ft. 
6 in. 


6 ft. 

7 in. 


6 ft. 

8 in. 


BREAST 

SIZES 


16 


16* 


16% 


Ll% 


16% 


16^4 


ii'X 


16% 


16% 


IB% 


16'% 


IS* 


11% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


19/ 

16% 


16% 


50 


I5 3 % 


15 1 


19% 


15% 


I5& 


15% 


6 


16% 


16% 


16^8 


ie£ 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16 24 


16% 


16% 


16'% 


16% 


49 


11% 


154. 


14/ 

154 


15% 


16/ 

1544 


17/ 

151 


15% 


15% 


IK 2 / X 
15 24 


15% 


15% 


15% 


16 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


48 


itf 


152; 


15% 


15/6 


10/ 
154 


15% 


15% 


"/ 
1544 


15% 


15% 


16/ 

15% 


17/ 

15% 


15% 


15% 


19/ 

15/4 


15/8 


15% 


15% 


16 


16% 


16% 


47 


15 


15% 


15.% 


15% 


15% 


15^4 


15% 


\A 


15% 


15% 


15% 


"/ 
15% 


15% 


15% 


14/ 

154 


15% 


16/ 

15% 


17/ 
154 


15% 


19/ 
I5%4 


15% 


46 


\0A 


\CL 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


15 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


w 

15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


45 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


I4 5 4 


14% 


I4l 


14% 


14% 


144 


15 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15'% 


15% 


15% 


44 


14% 


14% 


14^ 


14% 


\CL 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


.'V 

14% 


l7 / 

14^4 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


142 


14% 


15 


15% 


I5& 


43 


14 


\kI 


14% 


14% 


\CL 


14% 


14/4 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14^4 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


I4l 


42 


13% 


\il 


13% 


13% 


131 


I3l 


14 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14/z 


14% 


14% 


41 


13/a 


\il 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


14 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14% 


14/4 


14% 


14% 


40 


13% 


\il 


13% 


13% 


10/ 
I3/4 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


\& 


13% 


14 


14% 


14% 


39 


13 


ill 


13% 


13% 


13^4 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


38 


\i% 


i*2 


12% 


12% 


I2/4 


12% 


13 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


\fi 


13% 


»/ 
13% 


13% 


13% 


13/4 


37 


\i% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


16, 
1244 


12% 


12% 


12% 


29/ 

12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


13 


13% 


13% 


13% 


I3%4 


13% 


13% 


13% 


13% 


36 


\it 


122 


12^4 


12% 


12% 


12% 


\lY 2 


12% 


14/ 

12% 


\1% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


29/ 

12% 


12% 


12% 


I2 2 % 


13 


13% 


13% 


35 


12 


12^4 


12% 


12% 


12^4 


12% 


\iX 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


ill 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


10/ 
12% 


34 


11% 


11% 


20/ 
11% 


11% 


\\L 


11% 


12 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


5/ 

12% 


12/4 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


I2i4 


33 


\\V, 


11% 


14/ 
11% 


11% 


111 


11% 


11X 


11% 


H 2 % 


\\% 


11% 


11% 


12 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


12% 


I2%4 


12% 


32 


l'« 


11% 


11 Si 


11% 


10/ 

MA 


\\% 


11% 


II A 


11% 


11/8 


11% 


ll'% 


11% 


MA 


11% 


II \ 


11% 


11% 


12 


12% 


12% 


31 


II 


11%, 


111, 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


11% 


II* 


11% 


11% 


\[Yz 


11% 


11% 


\\% 


li'% 


11%, 


11% 


n2 


20/ 

IIA 


30 



110 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE FOR ALL 
HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



TABLE 50. 



l^HIS table deals with direct quantities, and will within reasonable limits give 
accurate results. 
The top line gives the heights. 
The column to the right gives the breast sizes. 

The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt 
with is the over-shoulder measure corresponding, with all additions included. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



Ill 



TABLE 50. 



5 ft, 


5 ft; 

3 in, 


5 ft. 
1 in. 


5 ft. 

2 in. 


5.ft. 

4 in. 


5 ft. 

5 in, 


5 ft. 

6 in. 


5 ft. 
7 in. 


5 to 

8 in. 


5 ft. 
9 in. 


5 ft. 

10 in. 


5 ft. 

II in. 


6 ft. 


6 ft. 

lin. 


6 ft. 
2 in. 


6 ft. 

3 in. 


6 ft. 

4 in. 


6 it. 

5 in. 


6 ft. 

6 in. 


6 ft. 

7 in. 


6 ft. 
8 in. 


BREAST 
SIZES 


21% 


21% 


21% 


22 


22% 


22^ 


2231 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


23 


23% 


50 


2tX 


l\l 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


22 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


4S 


2I<% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


22 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


22% 


M 


nl 


20% 


n% 


21 


21% 


21% 


21% 


i\Z 


2!%6 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


22 


22% 


'47 


20% 


id 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20^ 


20% 


20% 


21 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


4S 


20X 


20% 


20% 


20l 


20% 


20^6 


20% 


20X 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20l 


21 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


' 45 


19% 


11% 


11% 


20 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20%; 


21 


21% 


44 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20 1 


20% 


43 


19/6 


19^4 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


42 


11% 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


\%% 


IV 

19% 


19% 


IJ% 


20 


20% 


41 


I8/2 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18'% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


40 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18/4 


18^ 


18% 


\i& 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19" 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


39 


17% 


17^ 


I7'I 


18 


18/4 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


38 


17% 


I7%6 


17% 


I7%6 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


18 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


37 


17% 


17* 


17/4 


17^6 


17% 


17^6 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


l5 / 
17% 


18 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


36 


16% 


162 


16% 


17, 


17%, 


17/5 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


\l\ 


17% 


18 


18% 


35 


I6/2 


16% 


16^ 


•v 

16/6 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


17 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17 % 


17% 


17% 


34 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


167s 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


17 


17% 


17% 


17% 


\ll 


17% 


17% 


33 


"3/ 

15/6 


Itg 


15% 


16 


16/6 


iW 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


'V 

16% 


16% 


16% 


17 


17% 


32 


15% 


I5%6 


llX 


15% 


If* 


154 


15% 


"/ 
15% 


16 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


31 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15% 


15* 


16 


16^6 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


30 



112 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



THE UPPER-SHOULDER MEASURE FOR ALL 
HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



TABLE 51. 



'"THIS table, in order to avoid the very small fractions, varies about -^ inch from 

the original table in the smaller sizes and about the same in the extremely 
large ones. The rule for finding quantities for different heights and widths is the 
same as given for the previous ready reference tables, namely : 

The top line gives the heights. 

The column to the right gives the breast sizes. 

The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt 
with is the upper shoulder measure corresponding. 

THE LOWER SHOULDER. 



TZES ARE NOT GIVEN IN THIS CONNECTION, AS THEY PARTAKE OF WIDTH ONLY 
AND ARE THEREFORE THE SAME AS IN TABLE 26. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



113 



TABLE 51. 



5 ft. 


sit. 
tin. 


5 It. 
2 in. 


5(t, 
3 in. 


5 ft. 

4 in. 


5 ft. 

5 in. 


5 ft. 

6 in. 


5 ft. 

7 in, 


5 ft. 

8 in. 


5 ft. 

9 in. 


5 ft. 
10 in. 


5 ft. 
II in. 


6 ft. 


6 ft. 
lin. 


6 ft. 
2 in. 


6 ft. 

3 in. 


6 ft. 
4 in. 


6 ft. 

5 in. 


6 ft. 

6 in. 


6 it. 

7 in. 


6 ft. 
8 In. 


BREAST 
SIZES 


29% 


29% 


29% 


30% 


30/ 


30% 


30 5 % 


30l 


31 


3I%6 


31% 


31% 


31% 


31% 


32% 


32% 


32^ 


32% 


323! 


33% 


33% 


50 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29%a 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


31 


31% 


31% 


31% 


31% 


l\% 


32% 


32% 


32/2 


32% 


32% 


49 


%% 


28% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


31 


31% 


31% 


31% 


31% 


l\% 


32% 


32% 


32% 


48 


n } /& 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


30%6 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30^ 


31 


31% 


31% 


31% 


31% 


31% 


32% 


47 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


11/ 
29% 


29% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


31 


31% 


31% 


31% 


31% 


46 


11% 


11% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30^ 


31 


31% 


31% 


45 


n'A 


111 


111 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29% 


29%6 


29% 


29: 


29% 


29% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


30!£ 


31 


44 


26% 


riA 


H/4 


27%6 


27% 


27T 6 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


30% 


30% 


30% 


43 


26% 


%l 


U 


27%6 


27/ 


27% 


27% 


11% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28? 


29/ 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


30% 


42 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


27% 


27% 


111 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


29% 


41 


25% 


25'% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


11/ 
26% 


26% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29/ 


29% 


29% 


'40 


25% 


25% 


25X 


25% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29% 


39 


25 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


26% 


26% 


26/ 


26% 


26% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


28% 


38 


24% 


24% 


25 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


37 


24X 


24^6 


247a 


24% 


25 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27^ 


27% 


28 "J 


• 36 


23% 


24/6 


24/4 


tik 


24% 


25'% 


25 


25% 


25% 


25%. 


25% 


26^ 


26% 


26% 


26/ 


26% 


26% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


27% 


' '35 


23/, 


•23% 


23/ 8 


24% 


24/4 


24% 


24% 


24% 


25 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


27/ 


27^ 


34 


23% 


111 


23% 


iil 


23 1 


24% 


24/4 


24% 


24%a 


24% 


25 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


26^ 


26% 


26% 


26% 


26% 


33 


22% 


111 


23/« 


23% 


23% 


23% 


23 1 


24%6 


24% 


24% 


24%a 


24% 


25^ 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


25% 


26% 


26%e 


26% 


32 
31 


22% 


111 


22% 


22% 


23% 


23% 


23/ 


23% 


23% 


24% 


24/ 


24% 


24% 


24% 


250 


25% 


25% 


25% 


i% 


25% 


26% 


22 


111 


22 1 


22% 


22% 


22% 


23% 


23% 


23% 


111 


23% 


24% 


24% 


24% 


24% 


24% 


25 


25% 


%% 


25% 


25% 


30 



114 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



UNDERARM LENGTHS FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND 

WIDTHS. 



TABLE 52. 

'"PHIS table is an average for all types and does not entirely correspond to any 

of the preceding tables on that account, but will average quite close to the 
general run of men. The basis is the average of measures for all forms, but may 
be figured by adding the normal width of back plus a seam to the normal under- 
arm length, and adding £ inch to each inch of heights above the normal and reduc- 
ing the same amount below it. Each size above or below the normal increases or 
decreases respectively £ inch. 

The top line gives the heights. 

The colum?i to the right gives the breast sizes. 

The figures directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt 
with arc the sleeve lengths corresponding. 

It is well understood that the underarm length of sleeves loses as the back 
width increases. The underarm length therefore partakes of both height and 
width, as the length decreases as the width increases, while the outside length 
of the sleeve does not change. Therefore there is not given the outside length of 
sleeve in these tables, as the lengths already given and explained answer all 
purposes. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



115 



TABLE 52. 



5 ft. 


5 it. 

lid, 


2 in. 


5 ft. 

3 in. 


5 ft. 
4 in. 


5 ft. 

5 in. 


5 ft. 

6 in. 


5 ft. 

7 in. 


5 ft. 

8 in. 


5 ft. 
9 in. 


5 ft, 

10 in. 


5 ft. 

II in. 


6 ft. 


8 ft. 
lin. 


6 ft. 
2 in. 


6 ft. 

3 in. 


6 ft, 

4 in. 


6 11. 
5 in. 


6 It. 

6 in. 


611. 
7 in. 


6 It. 
8 in. 


BREAST 
SIZES 


15 


15% 


15% 


15% 


6 


16% 


16% 


16% 


17 


17* 


Ml 


17% 


18 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


\%% 


20 


50 


15% 


15% 


15^ 


15% 


e% 


16% 


I6%> 


16% 


17 1 


17% 


M% 


Ml 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19/8 


20% 


49 


15% 


15 % 


15% 


16 


e% 


I6£ 


16% 


17 


17% 


17% 


17% 


18 


18% 


18% 


11X 


19 


\%Y* 


19% 


19% 


20 


20X 


'48 


15% 


15% 


15% 


16% 


\d 


16% 


16% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


18 I 


18% 


18% 


187a 


19%; 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20% 


20% 


47 


|.5% 


15% 


16 


I6# 


16% 


16% 


17 


174 


17% 


17% 


18 


I8/4 


18% 


18% 


19 


19* 


19% 


19% 


20 


20% 


20% 


4B 


15% 


I5 7 % 


16% 


16% 


6% 


16% 


17% 


17% 


I7%» 


17% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20% 


20% 


20? 


45 


15% 


16 


16% 


16% 


16% 


7 


17% 


17% 


17% 


18 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20 


T&l 


20/z 


20* 


44 


I5 7 % 


16% 


16% 


16% 


16% 


\ii 


ill 


17% 


17% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


I8 7 % 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


n\ 


20^ 


20% 


20% 


43 


16 


16% 


16% 


I6 3 4 


17 


17% 


17% 


5, 
17/4 


18 


18/4 


18% 


18% 


19 


19/4 


19% 


19% 


20 


20/4 


20/, 


nl 


21 


42 


ni 


16% 


16% 


16% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


17% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19% 


I9 3 i 


19% 


197s 


20% 


20% 


20% 


1$ 


21* 


41 


16% 


l6/£ 


16^ 


17 ' 


17% 


17% 


17% 


18 


18/4 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20 


20/4 


20^2 


20* 


21 


21% 


40 


16% 


16%* 


16^ 


(7% 


17% 


17% 


177s 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


20% 


21% 


21% 


39 


16% 


16% 


17 


17% 


17% 


17% 


18 


18^4 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20 


20% 


20/a 


20% 


21 


21/4 


21% 


38 


!6% 


i B % 


17/8 


17% 


17*% 


17% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


!9 7 / 8 


20 /s 


20% 


20% 


20 1 


21% 


21% 


21% 


37 


16% 


17 


17% 


iii 


17% 


18 


18% 


I8K 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19* 


20 


20% 


20% 


20/4 


21 


21% 


21% 


21% 


36 


16% 


17% 


\i% 


m% 


17% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


!9 7 / 8 


20 X 


20% 


20% 


20% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


35 


17 


IT% 


17% 


17% 


18 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20 


204 


20% 


20% 


21 


21% 


21% 


21% 


22 


34 


17% 


17% 


17 X 


17^ 


18% 


18% 


18/a 


18% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20/8 


20% 


20% 


20% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


21% 


22% 


33 


I7X 


17% 


17% 


18 


18/4 


18% 


18% 


19 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20 


20% 


20^ 


20% 


21 J 


21/4 


21% 


21% 


22 


22% 


32 
31 


17% 


17*% 


17% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


18% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


19% 


20% 


20 % 


20 X 


20% 


21 \ 


21% 


21% 


21% 


22% 


22 % 


M 


17% 


18 


18/4 


11K 


18% 


19 


19/4 


19/z 


19% 


20 


20% 


20/2 


20/4 


21 


21/4 


21% 


21% 


22 


22 !4 


111 


30 



116 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



VEST LENGTHS FOR ALL HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 



TABLE 53, 

^HIS table is composed of the direct quantities that govern vest-length. With 
the exception of making due allowance for the individual ideas of both 

operator and wearer, the quantities given will be found satisfactory for all sizes. 
The top line gives the heights. 
The column to the right gives the breast sizes. 
_ The figure directly under the height in the same line as the breast size dealt 

with is. the vest-length, with additions included corresponding to the height and 

width. , . s 

The lengths thus gained are to be applied on a perpendicular line, as for 
normals. The amount the width extends when the waist is applied in the larger 
sizes will give a curving line to the front and a dip to the bottom run (in front of 
the perpendicular line) which will supply the additional length needed when the 
waist is large. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



117 



TABLE 53. 



5 ft. 


5 ft. 
1 in. 


5 ft. 

2 in. 


5 It. 
3 in. 


5 ft. 
4 in. 


5 ft. 

5 in. 


5 ft. 

6 in. 


5 ft. 
7 in. 


5 ft. 
8 in. 


5 ft. 

9 in. 


5 ft. 

10 in. 


5 ft. 
II in. 


6 ft: 


6 ft. 
lin. 


6 ft. 
2 in. 


6 ft. 
3 in. 


6 ft. 
4 in. 


6 ft. 

5 in. 


6 ft. 
6 in. 


6 ft. 

7 in. 


6 ft. 
Bin. 


1 - 

BREAST 
5IZtS 


Ill 


27! 


28 


28% 


28 4 


28% 


29 


29% 


29 4 


29% 


30 


30% 


30^ 


30% 


31 


31.4 


31% 


31% 


32 


324 


32% 


50 


ni 


27% 


27% 


28 


284 


284 


28% 


29 


294 


294 


29% 


30 


30% 


304 


30% 


31 


31% 


3l4 


31% 


32 


32% 


4S 


27 


27X 


111 


27% 


28 


284 


284 


28% 


29 


294 


294 


29% 


30 


30 4 


304 


30% 


31 


31% 


314 


31% 


32 


41 


26* 


27 


27/4 


27^ 


27% 


28 


28% 


284 


28% 


29 


29% 


294 


29% 


30 


304 


304 


30% 


31 


31% 


31% 


31% 


47 


264 


26% 


27 


27X 


274 


27% 


28 


28% 


284 


28% 


29 


294 


294 


29% 


30 


30 4 


30 4 


30% 


31 


31% 


314 


46 


26/4 


264 


26% 


27 


27% 


274 


27% 


28 


28/4 


284 


28% 


29 


294 


294 


29% 


30 


30% 


30 1 


30% 


31 


31% 


45 


26 


264 


264 


26% 


27 


274 


274 


H% 


28 


28% 


28 '4 


28% 


29 


294 


294 


29% 


30 


30 % 


30 4 


30% 


31 


44 


25% 


26 


26/4 


26 \ 


26% 


27 


274 


274 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28% 


29 


29% 


294 


29% 


30 


30% 


30 4 


30% 


43 


254 


25X 


26 


26^4 


264 


26% 


27 


274 


274 


27 3 4 


28 


28% 


284 


28% 


29 


29% 


294 


29% 


30 


304 


30% 


42 


71% 


111 


25% 


26 


264 


264 


26% 


27 


27% 


274 


27% 


28' 


28% 


284 


28% 


29 


294 


294 


29% 


30 


30 4 


41 


25 


25/4 


254 


25% 


26 


264 


264 


26% 


27 


274 


27% 


27% 


28 


284 


284 


28% 


29 


294 


294 


29% 


30 


40 


24% 


25 


25% 


25^ 


25% 


26 


26% 


26% 


26% 


27 


274 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


284 


28% 


29 


29% 


294 


29% 


39 


24% 


24% 


25 


25/4 


254 


25% 


26 


26% 


264 


26% 


27 


27% 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


284 


28% 


29 


29% 


29% 


38 


24X 


24 1 


24% 


25 


25% 


254 


25% 


26 


264 


26% 


26% 


27 


274 


274 


27% 


28 


284 


28% 


28% 


29 


29% 


37 


24 


244 


24% 


24% 


25 


25 % 


254 


25% 


26 


264 


264 


26% 


27 


274 


27% 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


%l 


29 


36 


23% 


24 


24% 


24/a 


24% 


25 


254 


254 


25X 


26 


264 


264 


26% 


27 


27% 


274 


27% 


28 


28% 


28% 


28%4 


35 


111 


23% 


24 


24/4 


244 


24% 


25 


25% 


254 


25% 


26 


26% 


264 


26% 


27 


274 


274 


27% 


28 


28% 


284 


34 


23/4 


23% 


23% 


24 


24% 


244 


24% 


25 


254 


254 


25% 


26 


264 


264 


26% 


27 


274 


274 


27% 


28 


28% 


33 


23 


23*4 


23% 


23% 


24 


24% 


244 


24% 


25 


25% 


254 


25% 


26 


264 


26% 


26% 


27 


27% 


274 


27% 


28 


32 


22% 


23 


23/4 


234 


23% 


24 


24% 


244 


244 


25 


25% 


254 


25% 


26 


26% 


26% 


26% 


27 


274 


274 


27% 


31 


224 


22X 


23 


23/4 


23/a 


23% 


24 


244 


244 


24% 


25 


254 


254 


25^ 


26 


26% 


264 


26 £ 


27 


27% 


274 


30 



118 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



INSEAM LENGTHS AND WAIST-RISES FOR ALL 
HEIGHTS AND WIDTHS. 

'THIS table offers a knotty problem for solution. The waist sizes as they are 

large or small add to or deduct from a relative amount to the rise and inseam 

quantities, and as waist sizes differ, we have a plural quantity adjusted to a singular 

one ; besides this the length and the rise are largely governed by height. We 

must therefore provide for such conditions. These conditions we have tried to 

meet by giving several waist sizes to each seat size, and a relative addition 

representing the gain above the normal waist rise corresponding to each degree 

of gain ; this is to be added to the height quantity itself, which varies in 

direct proportion to the height. 

TABLE 54. 

THE first column to the right contains the seat sizes from 33 to 54. 

The next 6 columns contain the waist sizes, as marked at the head of these 
columns. 

The 6 columns to the left of the waist sizes contain the additions correspond- 
ing to the columns of the same number in the waist sizes. 

The open space to the left of the additions has the heights from 5 feet to 6 
feet 8 inches at the top, and the waist rise and the inseam lengths corresponding 
to the heights at the bottom, respectively. 

Example : — To find the inseam and waist rise corresponding, for a man 5 
feet 10 inches tall, 48 inches seat and 45 inches waist, proceed as follows : 

First find the number of the column in which the waist size is located in the 
line that contains the seat size, which is Column 1 in this case. Find the 
addition in Column 1 under the heading " The Key," and in the same horizontal 
line as the waist and seat are located. The addition in this case is \ inch. 

Then find the waist rise and the inseam corresponding to the height, which 
in this case are 1 1 and 33, respectively. 

Now add the \ inch to the waist rise, and deduct the same amount from 
the inseam, which gives \\\ side rise and 32 £ inseam for a man 48 inches 
seat, 45 inches waist and 5 feet 10 inches in height. 

Again let us suppose that the same man measures 50 inches around the 
waist, the other measures the same as before. This waist measure is in Column 6 
and the addition in Column 6 is if inches. This amount added to the rise would 
then make it 12I inches, and the same amount deducted from the inseam would 
leave it 31^ inches for a man 5 feet 10 inches tall of 48 seat and 50 waist. 

If the waist is larger than the sizes given in Column 6, make the addition \ 
inch more for each size above the size given in Column 6, and if smaller than 
sizes in Column 1, reduce \ inch for each size, until the figure is reached. To 
the left of the figure 0, reverse the process and deduct from the waist rise and 
add to the inseam the quantity in the column corresponding to the waist size. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



119 





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4- 



120 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



A BASIS FOR LENGTHS OF COATS. 



W 1 



r HILE lengths of coats are largely a matter of height quantities, yet the 
lengths should be modified by width. 

The corpulent height is not great enough to correspond to the width, and 
therefore a slight increase in the length quantities should be made for this class to 
offset the disproportion, as far as effect is concerned. 

The same line of reasoning would also involve a slight decrease in the 
slender form, as the subject's height is too great for his width, and the fashionable 
waist length for frock coats and the full lengths for both frocks and sacks 
should suggest a less length than that proportionate to his height. 

The quantities in the next table are composed of both height and width 
quantities and a stationary quantity besides, to carry out the ideas suggested. 
While no permanent quantity can be given as long as fashions change, yet 
something to figure from is essential and to the something herewith given direct 
quantities can be added or deducted.. 

If, at the beginning of a season, you decide upon a certain length for your 
model size, and that length is 2 inches longer than the quantities in this table, 
then by adding 2 inches to all the sizes you preserve an even and yet propor- 
tionate length for the complete range from the smallest to the largest sizes. If 
you decide upon a shorter length, reduce in the same way. 

The rules to follow can, of course, be applied to individual cases, subject to 
the same modifications as hereafter given and previously explained. 

LENGTHS FOR AVERAGE SIZES. 



TABLE 55. 

Line 1, heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, breast sizes. 

Line 3, natural waist lengths, which are J height plus a seam, or \ inch. 

Line 4, the fashionable waist lengths for frock coats, gained by adding \\ 
inch to the natural waist length. The fashionable waist may be more or less, 
according to taste or style. 

Line 5, the lengths to the seat prominence — gained from three sections of 
height. 

Line 6, the full lengths of average sacks — gained from \ of the full breast 
plus \ of full height plus 3 inches more or less. 

Line 7, the lengths for cutaways — gained from \ of the full height plus*^ of 
the full breast plus 10 inches more or less. 

Line 8, the lengths of double-breasted frocks — gained from \ full height 
plus \ full breast plus 13^ inches more or less. 

Line 9, the lengths of average overcoats — gained from \ of full height plus 
\ of full breast. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



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122 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



LENGTHS FOR CORPULENT SIZES. 



TABLE 56. 

T^HE same general plan obtains as in the preceding table, the differences of 
the height and width quantities giving the variations. 

Line i, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the breast sizes. 

Line 3, the natural waist lengths, gained by \ height plus a seam, or \ inch. 

Line 4, the fashionable waist lengths for corpulent frocks, gained by adding 
1 1 inch to the natural waist length, which is \ inch more than in the averages 
in Table 54. 

Line 5, the lengths to the seat prominence, which are three sections of the 
height. 

Line 6, the full lengths of corpulent sacks, gained from \ of the full height 
plus \ of the full breast plus 3 inches, but may be more or less. 

Line 7, the lengths of cutaway frocks, gained from \ of the full height plus 
\ of the full breast plus 10 inches. The last may be more or less. 

Line 8, the lengths of double breasted frocks, gained from \ full height 
and \ full breast plus 13^ inches. The last may be more or less. 

Line 9, the lengths of corpulent overcoats, gained from | of full height 
plus £ of full breast, to which additions or deductions may be made. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



123 



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NO 


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124 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



LENGTHS FOR SLENDER SIZES. 



TABLE 57. 

""THE same general plan is employed as in the two preceding tables ; the height 
and width quantities lend the flexibility to give lengths corresponding to the 
type dealt with. 

Line I, the heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the breast sizes. 

Line 3, the natural waist lengths, which are \ height plus a seam, or \ inch. 

Line 4, the. fashionable waist lengths for slender forms, gained by adding 
1 \ inch to the natural waist length, which is \ inch less than in the averages 
as per Table 54. 

Line 5, the lengths to the seat prominence, which are three sections to the 
height. 

Line 6, the full lengths of slender sacks, gained from \ of the full height 
and \ of the full breast plus 3 inches. 

Line 7, the full lengths of the cutaway frocks, gained from \ full height 
and \ full breast plus 10 inches. The stationary addition may be made more 
or less. 

Line 8, the lengths of double-breasted frocks, gained from \ full height 
and \ full breast plus 13^ inches. 

Line 9, the lengths of overcoats for slender forms, gained from \ of full 
height and { of full breast. Additions or deductions may be made. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



125 



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126 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



WORKING TABLE FOR AVERAGES WITHOUT 
ADDITIONS TO THE SHORT MEASURE. 



TABLE 58. 

'THIS table is identical with Table 31, excepting that the short measures in 
Lines 10, 11, 12 and 13 are given as taken, without the additions for seams 
and ease. This is done to facilitate comparisons with measures as taken, and 
merely to give the operator the choice to use the table that he may find the most 
convenient. 

Lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are the same as explained for Table 31. 

Line 10, the scye depths without additions, as given in Line 7 of Table 1 1. 

Line 1 1, the blades witho7it additions, as given in Line 3 of Table 12. 

Line 12, the front-shoulder measures without additions, as given in Line 6 of 
Table 13. 

Line 13, the over-shoulder measures without additions, as given in Line 6 of 
Table 14. 

Lines 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 and 26 are the same as given 
in and explained for Table 31. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



127 



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128 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

TYPES OF FORMS. 



The Importance of the Knowledge of Types in Connection with 

Proportions. 

TPHE cutter who has occasion to cut by proportions will find himself handi- 
capped, even when he has mastered the science, unless he possesses a clear 
knowledge of the types of forms. While height and width give the basis for 
general development, they do not provide for what Huxley terms "spontaneous 
variations," or variations that occur without any apparent cause. 

Tailors encounter this element, principally, in shoulder formation and 
attitude, but beyond this there are numerous minor variations, such as long and 
short bodied forms, flat and round forms, forms of long and short extremities, 
forms varying in corresponding parts of the two sides, and so on through a 
long list, many of which have been treated in the classifications of the forms 
already dealt with. 

As far as we have gone there has been nothing to indicate attitude or 
shoulder formation ; but attitude and the slope and squareness of the shoulders 
are important and necessary elements when individuals are dealt with. 

Proportions, as treated up to this time, have given us the knowledge of treat- 
ment in masses, as the artist would say, by which we could safely prepare a set of 
patterns intended to average well for a great number of people ; but when 
employed for individual patterns the treatment in masses should be supplemented 
by other details, and attitude and shoulder formation are details that come under 
this head. Further details can be added,, but there is always danger of loading 
any proposition down to an unwieldy point. We shall therefore confine ourselves 
to the details referred to. 

To illustrate the need of these details, let us suppose a case of two coats of 
the same kind to be cut by proportions for two different men whom we have never 
seen, but who are of exactly the same height and the same width. As the basis to 
figure from is the same, the deductions reached from them would naturally be the 
same also ; and though the garments constructed from such a method of deduc- 
tion would be of perfect proportions, we might learn to our sorrow that neither 
one of the garments corresponded to the figure dealt with ; for while the figures 
were identical in height and width, one might be extremely low shouldered and 
the other extremely high shouldered, which would cause our otherwise scien- 
tifically calculated garments to fall short of perfection in one case and beyond 
it, if the figure of speech is allowable, in the other. This argues in favor of a 
third element entering in, besides the height and width, when cutting garments 
for people we cannot measure ourselves. This element is shoulder formation. 

The importance of this element, shoulder formation, is shown by Plates 4 and 5. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



129 



PLATE 4. 

The Sloping or Low Shoulder. 

The dotted line shows the normal height of the shoulder, as illustrated by 
the Figures of Plate i, page 63. 




Plate 4. 

For the figures of this plate the shoulder height (see the line next below the 
dotted line) is less than normal by one-eighth of a section, or one sixty-fourth of 
the full height, 1 inch for a height of 5 feet 6 inches, or 66 inches. 



130 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



PLATE 5. 

The High or Square Shoulder. 

The dotted line shows the normal height of the shoulder as illustrated by 
the figures of Plate i, page 63. 




Plate 5. 

For the figures of this plate the shoulder height (see the line next above the 
dotted line) is more than normal by one-eighth of a section, or one sixty-fourth of 
the full height, 1 inch for a height of 5 feet 6 inches, or 66 inches. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



131 



But, again, let us imagine the same cases with normal shoulder formations, 
which according to our present stage of calculating ought to make a garment cut 
for one correct for the other ; but it might not do so because of the attitude of the 
men. One might be overerect and the other stooping, and still both might be of 
the same height, draw the same breast measure and be of normal shoulder forma- 
tion. This suggests the need of a fourth element to be employed when cutting 
individual garments by proportions, namely, attitude. 

PLATE 6. 

Attitude. 
The figure in the center represents the normal attitude, that at at the left the 
overerect and that at the right the stooping. 




Plate 6. 



132 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



We have therefore to consider height, width, shoulder formation and 
attitude. This brings us to an interesting point, the definition of types, and the 
questions may well be asked : " How can we define the degree of slope or 
squareness dealt with ? and how can attitude be ascertained ?" 

We are in a general way cognizant of the fact that the shoulder formation of 
some people is best typified by the slope of a champagne bottle, while others may 
be likened to the square effect found in the average ink bottle. 

To determine the shoulder slope, place a straight edge even with the top of 
the sleeve head, or at the height of the shoulder, and make a mark in the center 
of the back, even with the shoulder height. 

Measure the distance from the mark just made to the height of the coat, or 
to the collar seam. This gives the slope, and 3 inches may be considered an aver- 
age. Anything more than 3 inches would be the amount of extra slope and any- 
thing less than 3 inches would be the amount of squareness of the shoulder. 
These quantities gained as described can be applied to any system of cutting. 
This treatise is not intended to advocate methods nor indicate a preference for 
any system. To bring out features applicable to all systems worthy of the name 
is the limit of the purpose of this volume. 

To ascertain attitude, apply the length from the nape of the neck (or from 
the collar button for convenience) to the floor, and then from the collar button in 
front to the floor. The back measure should approximate 2\ inches more than 
the front measure. An increase over the average length in the back quantity 
would indicate a stooping form and a decrease would mean erectness. A tape 
held at the end of a strait edge, with the straight edge resting on the floor, proves 
a fairly satisfactory attitude taker, but much care is required in its taking. If, 
however, a cutter knows his business tolerably well, and has good eyes and good 
sense, the most satisfactory way to determine attitude is to do so by judgment. 

In cases where other variations are emphasized it is well to have a clear 
description of them accompanying the regular elements, such as long waist, short 
legs, bow legs, knock knees, back bending calves, one shoulder low, angular 
figure, round figure, flat figure, flat blades, prominent blades, large hips, flat seat, 
head dipping forwards, etc., etc With these points understood we can proceed to 
the application of the principles laid down. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



133 



APPLICATION IN PRACTICE. 



IF a student of this book were suddenly called on to cut a suit of clothes by pro- 
portions, the suddenness of it might cause him some anxiety and he might find 
it necessary to plow through many of the preceding pages in order to connect the 
propositions that have been set forth before the venture could be safely made. 

To refresh the memory, as well as to summarize what we have said, the fol- 
lowing applications to actual practice are calculated to best demonstrate the mode 
of procedure. 

The three cases herewith given are selected so that the first will come within 
the limits of the average, the second within the definition of corpulency and the 
third within the range of the slender form. 

Let us suppose a case of a traveling salesman sending home three orders to 
the measurements and descriptions given below. 



I 


Height, 5 feet 6. 
Slope, 2|. 


Breast, 35. 
Attitude £ erect. 




2 


Height, 5 feet 6. 
Slope, 2-|. 


Breast, 47. 
Attitude erect. 




3 


Height, 5 feet 1 1. 
Slope, 3f 


Breast, i>7- 
Attitude \ stooping. 



Order No. 1. 

The measures indicate a type of form that would come under the head of the 
average, as far as height and widths are concerned. The difference between 
the height given and the height corresponding to the breast size is 1 inch, the 
latter height being the greater; therefore as the inch and the one-half of itself 
make 1-^ inch, the half of which amount (as explained in Table 6), \ inch, is 
deducted from the average waist (3 1 f) corresponding to the breast size dealt 
with, the waist size required is now 31 inches, the loss of size being compen- 
sated for by increased height. 

When the height is less than that corresponding to the width, take the num- 
ber in the top line (Table 31) corresponding to the height, say 5 feet 1 inch, 
which is 7, less the number in the top line of the column in which the breast 
measure is found, say 35 breast, or 3, leaving 4 as a remainder. Add one-half, or 
2 inches, of the remainder to the average waist size for the breast dealt with, 
making the waist $$% when the breast is 35 and the height only 5 feet 1, the 
increased waist being the compensating quantity for the decreased height. The 
quantity gained tallies also with the ready reference Table 47. 

The breast size is 35 and the waist has been found as 31 for a man of 5 feet 
6 inches in height. 



134 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 

The sectional measures as given for convenience in the ready reference tables 
(except the blades) are 12^ front shoulder, 17^ over shoulder and 9^ depth of 
scye with all additions included ; but as the shoulder slope is \ inch less than the 
normal, the depth of scye and the front-shoulder measure are each reduced the 
amount the slope has fallen short ; if the reverse were the case the measures 
should be increased that amount. 

The blade is normally 12^, but the half of the degree of erectness, or £ inch, 
maybe reduced, making it 12^. In stooping, one-half of the degree of stoop is 
added. 

The lower shoulder would be 24 and the upper 25 ; but the slope given indi- 
cates J inch squareness, as it is 2f instead of 3 inches, which makes it neces- 
sary to make the upper shoulder £ inch less than the lower, or 23 \ inches, as 
one-half of the amount the upper shoulder is less than the lower indicates the 
degree of squareness ; in a reverse case the one-half of the amount the upper 
shoulder is greater than the lower indicates extra slope. The smaller sizes 
average slightly sloping, and the large ones slightly square, as may be noted in 
Table 31. 

The natural waist is gained by the J height plus £ inch, or i6f inches, as 
previously explained. 

The fashionable waist is i\ inch more, or 18J inches. The full length for a 
sack, as per explanations for Table 55, would be 28^ inches. The basis for 
the full length of sacks may be gained by adding 3 inches, or any given number, 
to the vest lengths in Table 53. 

The full length for a cutaway (which may be gained by adding 10 inches to 
the vest lengths in Table 53) would be 35^ inches. 

The overcoat (\ height and £ breast) would be 41I inches long. 

The sleeves, as explained, 3 if inches long with additions included, or inseam 
length 1 S-f- inches. 

The vest length, as per Table 53, is 25J inches with additions included. 

The trousers, 36 seat, 31 waist, as per Table 54, would give 3 i-g- inseam and 
of rise, which would make the outseam 41. The waist has already been 
determined for the coat, but may be made \ inch less, as taken under the vest, 
particularly if a close fit is wanted. The seat is 1 inch more than the breast, or 36. 

The knee (^ height and \ seat less 7 inches) is \Z\ inches. 

The bottom {\ knee phis 7 inches) is \b\. 

The total measurements gained to cut any kind of a garment by, for a man 5 
feet 6 inches tall, of 35 breast, \ square and \ erect, is therefore the following : 

For the Coat. 
All Additions Included, 
g depth of scye. 4i| length of overcoat. i7 T \ over shoulder. 

i6| natural waist. 35 breast. 23I upper shoulder. 

1 8J fashionable waist. 31 waist. 24 lower shoulder. 

28^ length of sack. 12^ blade. 3 if sleeve length. 

35i length of cutaway. 12I front shoulder. 

For the Vest. 
1 if opening. 25^ full length. 

For the Trousers. 
9f rise. 31 waist. 18J knee. 

3 if inseam. 36 seat. i6J bottom. 

41 outseam. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS 135 

Order No. 2. 

Height 5 feet 6 inches. Breast 47. 

Slope 2|. Attitude normal. 

This comes under the heading of the corpulent type. The waist for these 
dimensions, as explained in Table 32, would be 51, by adding the numbers in the 
top line and adding one-half of its own value to the number above the Checking 
Column, and the full value to its own amount below the Checking Column, and 
adding the total to the waist given in the lesser height, as explained for Table 32. 

It will be noticed that if we figure this from the working table of averages, as 
explained for Tables 31 and 6, we gain only a 40-inch waist for the case in hand. 
This suggests the necessity of attention to types in order to gain the results desired. 

The blade measure, being a width quantity, is 15^ for a 47 breast, and the 
scye, front and over-shoulder measures may be gained from the ready reference 
tables as iof, 15^ and 21^, respectively. 

The scye and the front shoulder will be modified by the •§ inch of square 
shoulder formation, which is the amount the shoulder slope is less than normal. 
This makes the scye and front shoulder 10^ and 14 J, instead of as given above. 

The lower shoulder corresponding to the breast size is 30^, and Table 51 
gives the upper shoulder as 29^, which is if less than the lower, one-half of which 
would give -J--J-, or within a small fraction corresponding to -| squareness, as 
called for by the direct shoulder slope. 

The natural waist is i6f and the fashionable waist may be a little more than 
the average, or say 18^ in this case, in order to add artificially to the appearance of 
the length of the waist. The sleeve for this height is 3 if. 

The vest length, as per Table 53, is 28^, and the opening may be made 15-J-. 
or 1 inch less than half the full length, or more or less. 

The trousers : Table 44 gives the corpulent seat size for a 47 breast as 49^. 

As the waist size is already determined as 51, we may use 49 seat even, with 
51 waist, as per Table 54, which gives us an inseam of 29^ and a rise of 1 i-|-. The 
outseam would be 41. The knee would be 2 if and the bottom 1 8-J-. 

The measures for a man of 47 breast, 5 feet 6 inches tall, modified as per 
" Order No. 2," would be as below. 

For the Coat. 
All Additions are Included. 
1 oj depth of scye. 47 breast. 2 i T 3 g over shoulder. 

i6f natural waist. 51 waist. 29^ upper shoulder. 

i8£ fashionable waist. 15} blade. 30I lower shoulder. 

31^ length of sack. 14$ front. 3 if sleeve length. 

38I length of cutaway. 

For the Vest. 
15^ opening. 28^ full length. 

For the Trousers. 

n-Jrise. 51 waist.' 2 if knee. 

29^ inseam. 49^ seat. i8£ bottom. 

41 outseam. 



136 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



Order No. 3. 

Height 5 feet u. Breast 37. 

Slope 3f. i stooping. 

This brings us in contact with the third type, namely, the slender form. The 
height, 5 feet 11, and the width, $7 form the basis to work from. 

Table 33 gives us the typical slender form quantities, and upon referring to it 
we find the height given exceeding the height corresponding to the width by 1 
inch. Add one-half of itself, making i\ inch, and deduct this from the waist of 
the greater height, which in this case is 33^, leaving 32 as the waist size. Proceed 
by this method for any other size or height when the given height exceeds the 
height corresponding to the breast size. 

The short measures are: blade 13, which includes \ inch for the. half-inch 
stoop. The scye and the front shoulder are 9^ and 13 J, respectively, to which 
the f inch extra slope must be added, making them io T \- and 13I. The over- 
shoulder is i8 T \. 

The long measures would register 25^ lower shoulder and 26$ upper shoul- 
der, the difference being 1^ inch, giving \ inch more slope than given in Table 5, 
but a remarkable approximation and a strong test for combination experiments 
demonstrating the flexibility of the method set forth. 

The natural waist, as per the height dealt with is 18 inches, but the fashion- 
able waist may be made \ inch less than for the average, or about i\ inch 
instead of \\ inch more than the natural waist, making 19! inches in this case. 

The full length for a sack may be 30 inches, for a cutaway 37, for a dou- 
ble breasted frock 40A and for an overcoat 44I. 

The sleeve for this height is 2,$% inches long. 

The vest opening and the length are 12^ and 27, respectively. 

The trousers for slender forms, as already determined, have a double inseam 
length of only 2 inches less than the total height, or 1 inch less than the half- 
height as a basis. 34^ is the inseam corresponding to the height dealt with, and 
as the waist is practically an average for this type, it can be held at that. 

The waist rise for this height is 10 inches, making the outseam 44^ inches. 

The ready reference Table 54 shows the flexibility in this instance, rise and 
inseam, as for a 38 seat and 32 waist the inseam comes within £ inch of the 
amount given above and the table can be used with much convenience and com- 
parative safety. 

For a 38 seat the knee and bottom sizes are 20^ and 1 j\, respectively. This 
would make our deductions, modified to slope and attitude, as follows: 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 137 



For the Coat. 
All additions are included. 
io T \ depth of scye. 13 blade. 

18 natural waist. 13I front shoulder. 

19J fashionable waist. i8 T 3 ^- over shoulder. 

30 length of sack. 26f upper shoulder. 

2)7 length of cutaway. 25^ lower shoulder. 

37 breast. 33! sleeve, 

32 waist. 

For the Vest. 
12& opening. 27 full length. 

For the Trousers. 
10 rise. 38 seat. 

34! inseam. 20^ knee. 

44^ outseam. 17^ bottom. 

32 waist. 

Deductions gained by careful calculations, as herewith demonstrated, will 
result in dimensions that will give, out of a certain number of cases, results as 
satisfactory as when the measures are taken upon the person for whom the 
garments are to be made. 

There are, of course, a few exceptions to this method, but they are trifling 
and immaterial. Even two sets 0/ measures of the same man, taken with equal care 
by an expert cutter, will generally vary. 

As this method has been introduced neither to do away with measures nor 
to improve upon them, but to act as a substitute in their absence and to give 
a surer hold on general trade knowledge, the reader will perhaps feel that 
its purpose has been acomplished. It enables the cutter to do easily many 
things that were before either impossible or extremely tedious and difficult. 



138 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



READY REFERENCE RULES. 



u 



NDER this heading several ready reference rules are given that may 
frequently be applied to advantage. Some of them are culled from the 
body of this work, but many are rules of averages, and a few are only applicable 
under certain conditions. For example, the quantity given to locate the shoulder 
point will apply only with average suppressions that are taken out in the 
usual way. Different rules emphasize the same proportions in unequal degrees 
to suit different conditions. In short, they do not all apply to all classes and all 
conditions with equal accuracy. They are here to select from as the reader may 
find need for them. They are not laws that cannot be disobeyed. 

Any of the following rules will be found practically 

accurate. 

SCYE DEPTH. 

^breast plus 3^ inches. 

The normal back width plus 2 inches. 

BACK WIDTHS. 

I blade net plus if inch. 

Full blade on scale of -| less -j- 1 ^-. 

§ full blade less \ plus 1 \ inch (more or less). 

One-third of 3^ inches more than one-half breast. 

Full blade on scale of two-thikds less 1 inch. 

\ breast plus 3 inches. 

LOWER SHOULDER. 
One-half breast plus 7^ inches. 

No rule can be given for the upper shoulder, as results depend largely on 
the slope or squareness of the shoulder. 

THE BLADE. 

The number gained by adding 3^ inches to one-half full breast, used on the 
halves plus if inch gives the blade. 

\ breast plus 3^ inches. 

One-third full breast, for the smaller sizes only. 

\ breast on the halves plus 2 inches gives the blade as taken. Make usual 
additions. 

SLEEVE LENGTHS. 

Outside length. Full height less 2\ inches, divided by 2. 

Outside length. Half height less \\ inch. 

UNDERARM LENGTHS. 

\ height plus \\ inch. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 139 

INSEAM LENGTHS FOR TROUSERS. 

Normal. Total height less 4 inches, divided by 2. 

Normal. Half-height less 2 inches. 

Corpulent. (Approximate) 3 inches less than \ height plus \ inch for each 
inch the waist has gained above the normal. 

Slender. 1 inch less than \ height. 

General. (Approximate) 3 inches less than \ height plus \ inch for each 
inch the waist is less than seat. When the waist is larger than the seat, deduct \ 
inch from the length for each inch it exceeds the seat. 

WAIST RISE FOR TROUSERS. 

Normal : \ inseam length less 5^ inches. 
\ height less 6\ inches, 
i seat. 

Corpulent : \ height less 6| inches plus \ inch for each inch the waist gains 
above the normal. 

General : $ height, full seat and full waist, divided by 11. 

One section height plus 3 inches. Add £ for each inch the waist is larger, or 
deduct \ inch for each inch the waist is smaller than the waist. 

LENGTHS. 

Natural waist, full scye depth plus 7^ inches. 

Natural waist, ^ breast plus 1 1 inches. 

Natural waist, from the breast line down \ breast plus 4$ inches. 

Scye depth, from breast line up \ breast plus 3^ inches. 

Length to seat, \ breast and \ breast plus 14^ inches. 

Length to seat, \ breast plus 19 inches. 

Sack length, a stationary quantity, say 3^ inches, added to the vest length. 

Sack length, \ breast and \ breast plus 19 inches. 

Sack length, one-half breast plus 10 inches, more or less. 

Cutaway length, \ breast plus \ height plus 10 inches. 

Vest length, \ height plus \ breast. 

WIDTHS. 

Breast sizes : — The normal blade (as taken) plus i£ inch plus \ breast on the 
halves gives one-half full breast plus 3! inch addition. 
Back width, \ breast plus 3 inches. 
Scye width, \ breast plus \ inch. 
Blade, \ breast plus 3^ inches. 
Front shoulder, \ breast plus 3I inches. 
Over shoulder, f breast plus 5^ inches. 
Collar size, (men) \ breast plus 6 inches. 
Collar size, (women) £ bust plus 6 inches. 
Knee size for trousers, \ height plus \ seat less 7 inches. 
Bottom width for trousers, \ knee plus 7 inches. 



140 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



SHOULDER POINT. 

Depth of scye (2^ inches suppression) plus 6 inches from the top of back 
center seam. 

§ breast plus 3^ inches from the back center line. 

Twice the width of back plus £ inch, if the suppression is 2^ inches. 

The shoulder slope added in front of the front of scye line. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Hip pockets : — f natural waist length down from the breast line. 

\ and \ are equal to \ on the square. 

§ and \ are equal to one-half of the full breast or waist. 

\ and \ are § on the square. 

\ and y 1 ^ are \ on the square. 

\ and -fa is ^ on the square. 

Double thigh averages 2 inches less than £ seat. 

Single thigh averages 2\ inches more than one-half seat. 

TO' APPROXIMATE THE AMOUNT OF GOODS NEEDED BY THE DIMENSIONS OF THE 

patterns, take the total of : — 

Inseam length of trousers, outside length of sleeve, vest length and waist 
circumference, for goods 28 inches wide. 

Reduce fa yard for each inch the material is wider than 28 inches, and 
increase T J f yard for each inch the material is narrower than 28 inches. 

FORMULA FOR FINDING THE SHORT MEASURES. 

Allowance for making included. 

Scye depth, \ breast plus 3^ inches. 

Blade, twice the scye depth on the scale of two-thirds. 

Front shoulder, \ inch more than the blade. 

Over shoulder, twice the scye depth less 1 inch. 



*«&&*" 



54 52 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 32 30 



Bepfh of£cye ^„ lgm 

From Height to Width Points/?///^ 5inches. mTFT 7 ! 9 1 " I 'l 3 ! 5 !^! 



H 



Blade MjimAi ™ *j. :'." 4/ ^ w v. *■< t>. u >w w 

From //rrow /oSize required plus 70 inchej 



8 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



1 



Front SAoule/er 5 1 53 52 5I 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 
From Height to Width Points p/us 10 inches. 



J. 



_U_J_ 



■ j 4 6 I U „ 2 j j J 



B 



54 53 52 5 1 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 I I 



1 



1 



1 



1 



X 



-L 



1 



1 



1 



± 



± 



1 



JJ_L 



Over Sh oulc/er 

From Height to Width Points p/us 10 inches. 



/? 



I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IP llS I 2 3 4 6 6 7 8 



lllllllll 



ill 



ill 



B 



A 



54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



I I I I I 



I I I I I 



UpperShoulder 



I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IP II Z I 2 3 4 5 6 7 



lIllllllllMllllllllllllllllMI 



54 53 52 51 50 49 



& From Height to Width Points p/us 20 inches. 

47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



a 



j I i I i 



i i i 



Lower 
Shoulder, 



From //rrow /o <S/je reauirecf p/us 20 inches. 



iO 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 32 30 



I I ' 



I I ' 



Depth of £ eye gin,,g l4 i 

from Height to Width Vo\n\sp/us 5inches. 



13 

LLL 



/I 



54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



U_ 



1 



i i i i i i i 



I 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



J I 



I I i 



3= 3= 



2 4 6 810^2468 



I I I 



3 5 J 9 II I 3 5 7 

ililililililmlili 



Over Sh o ulder 

'om Height to Width Points plus 10 inches. 



a 



2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IO IIS [ 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 



lllllllllllllllllllll 



/I 



34 33 32 3 1 30 



Upper Shoulder 



I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IP II co I 2 3 4 5 6 7 



lLlLlu 



•om Height to Width Points p/us 20 inches. 



40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



1 



/I 

Jjower m 
Shoulder 



e required p/us 20 inches . 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 141 



THE SCALES. 



T^HE scales that accompany this book are self-explanatory. As they are 
derived from counter-balancing height and width quantities, a flexibility is 
gained that will approximately meet all proportionate requirements of heights and 
widths. 

HOW TO USE THE SCALES. 

Depth of Scye. — From the height size on Scale A to the breast size on 
Scale B plus 5 inches. 

EXAMPLE. 

Breast, 36 inches. Height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

Place the 5-inch point of a square or tape on the 5-feet-8-inch point of 
Scale A and find the quantity falling on the breast size required. This includes 
all additions for making and ease. 

The Blade. — As the blade is only a width quantity the height is not used. 
To find the blade corresponding to any breast size place the 10-inch point of a 
square or tape at the arrow point. The quantity that falls on the breast size 
required is the blade with additions for making and ease included. 

The Front Shoulder or Strap. — Place the 10-inch point of a square or 
tape on the height quantity required on Scale A and find the quantity falling on 
the breast size required on Scale B. The additions are included. 

The Over Shoulder. — Place the 10-inch point of a square or tape on the 
height quantity required on Scale A and find the quantity falling on the breast 
size required on Scale B. All additions are included. 

The Upper Shoulder. — Place the 20-inch point of a square or tape on the 
height quantity required on Scale A and find the quantity falling on the breast 
size required on Scale B. This gives the measure net. 

The Lower Shoulder. — As the lower shoulder is only a width quantity the 
height is not used. Apply the 20-inch point of the square or tape at the arrow 
point and find the quantity falling on the breast size required. This gives the 
measure net. 

The additions given may be increased or decreased to suit any requirement 
met. 



142 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



CONFIRMATORY INVESTIGATIONS. 



HTHE aim of this volume has been to give a method that would stand the test of 
practical application. To this end all else has been subordinated. 

As a final test, and at a fitting time, shortly after the completion of the fore- 
going, it was my privilege to examine the results of one of the most extensive 
researches ever made along this line, conducted by J. Gardner Smith, M. D., dur- 
ing the physical examinations of 6,000 men at the Young Men's Institute branch 
(from 1885 to 1888) and at the Harlem Branch of the Y. M. C. A. (1888 to 1889), 
both of New York City. 

These examinations were made under the most favorable conditions and 
went into all possible details, such as dimensions in- various postures, girths of 
extremities, as well as the trunks and the relative lengths of trunks and extremi- 
ties, as well as tests to determine the activity of the organs. 

While this data threw side lights on the subject in hand, the heights, widths 
and weights were, in particular, pertinent to the study of tailors' proportions. As 
the doctor's work was all done from the nude it pulled the averages down in pro- 
portion ; but when allowance is made for clothing (which is necessary for our pur- 
pose, as the tailors' model is clothed), it approximates so nearly to the experiments 
which furnished the basis for this work that it can be called identical. This was 
only to be expected, because measures are measures. 

The systematic taking of thousands of measurements of heights, weights and 
sectional measurements for the express purpose of furnishing a foundation for 
this work, and the counter-checking by the measurements referred to above, give 
a working basis that the critics of this book should show an equal of before their 
criticisms are conclusive. This is not said to forestall honest criticism, as honest 
criticism will be welcomed by the author ; but unfortunately too many critics do 
not fully understand the subject they attack. 

Some men look their wisest when they deliver themselves of negative 
opinions. They stand ever ready to take advantage of anything that enables 
them to take on the semblance of wisdom. On subjects of which they most need 
information they are particularly free with their condemnatory opinions. If they 
will give the principles and rules laid down in this work a fair trial in practice, the 
result will satisfy them that the author's work has not been in vain. 



PART II. 



BOYS' PROPORTIONS 



144 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



PROPORTIONS FOR BOYS. 



THE original purpose of this book was to give a method for determining the 
quantities dealt with in constructing patterns for men's garments only by the 
proportions of heights and widths. The first part, just concluded, has amply covered 
this field; but actuated by a desire to give "good measure" we give a brief 
summary of boys' proportions in the tables to follow under this heading. While 
the elaborate experiments conducted to gain the results of the first part have not 
been repeated in full for the subject in hand, yet experiments that would be con- 
sidered elaborate but for the comparison with the foregoing have given a basis 
for what will prove a fairly satisfactory explanation of the development of boys 
from 4 to 15 years of age. 

Strict adherence to anatomical principles has not been aimed at, but like 
euphony in speech where rules of grammar are sometimes set aside when they 
impede harmonious expression, so the quantities used to gain the working power 
for children's, boys' and youths' proportions have been laid down on the lines of 
the preceding rules for adults. 

The octaval division, while not actual in the smaller sizes, gives working 
quantities as near as do the anatomical quantities proper. 

For instance, a child 6 months old is, normally, only 4 heads tall ; at the 
age of one year he is 4^ heads ; at the age of 4 years he is 5 heads ; at 6 he 
is 6 heads, and at 14 he is 7 heads. Though his head is disproportionately 
large at birth and gradually diminishes as he increases in height, his waist is the 
center of his height and his finger tips reach to the same point at his thigh, gener- 
ally speaking, at all of the periods of his development. This makes the octaval 
system an applicable quantity for use in considering the measurements of children. 

With the general understanding that we already have, the following tables 
and explanations will be easily understood. 



The author's aim has not been to 
make this work the most perfect 
but the most useful. . . . 



146 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



TABLE 59. 

Line i, ages consecutively from 7 to 15 years. 

Line 2, average heights in accordance with average development of boys at 
these ages. It will be noted that the heights given indicate slow growth in the 
smaller sizes, an increased growth in the intermediate and a more rapid growth in 
the larger sizes, which will be found on investigation to correspond with the 
actual development of the normal boy. 

Line 3, the heights in inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 5, the quarter-heights in inches, and also the natural waist. 

Line 6, one-eighth heights. 

Line 7, the breast sizes corresponding to the ages and the heights contained 
in Lines 1 and 2, respectively. 

Line 8, approximately correct waist sizes, by holding them equal to the 
breast during the slow growth period (as per first three lines to the left), then 
increasing \ inch to each size during the increased growth period (as per the three 
center lines), and increasing £ inch in the three columns to the right. 

Line 9, the depths of scye by \ of the half-breast and \ of the height on 
the 4ths of the square plus f inch. 

Line 10, the blades, by \ breast plus \ breast plus \ breast. 

Line 11, the front-shoulder measures, gained by \ breast and \ of the one- 
fourth height plus \\ inch. 

Line 12, the over-shoulder measures, gained by f breast plus the half 
height on the 8ths of the square plus if inches. 

Line 13, the full length of coats, gained by adding i\ inches to the seat 
length. The seat length is three-eighths of the height, or three times the 
quantity in Line 6. The 2\ inches addition may be more or less. 

Line 14, the sleeve lengths gained as in Table 34, except that the allowance 
for outside measurement is 2 inches instead of 3, that only 5 inches is allowed for 
angles, and that the addition from the wrist to the full length is \ inch less than 
in that table. 

We therefore gain the length as follows : 

The height as per Line 3 plus 2 inches, added for the amount the outstretched 
arms are longer than the total height, plus 5 inches added for outside measurement. 
Divide by 2 to gain the amount from the center of the back to the finger tips. 
Deduct \ height (as per Line 6) to the wrist. Add 1 inch to gain the length to 
the hand and then add an additional 1 inch for seams. 

Line 15, the vest lengths from \ breast and \ height. 

Neck sizes may be gained by \ breast plus 6 inches. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



147 



TABLE 59. 



Line I 


Ages 


7 


8 


9 


10 


II 


12 


13 


14 


151 






" 2 


Heights in feet and inches 


3 ft. 
8 in.' 


3. ft. 

9 in. 


3 ft. 
10 in. 


4 ft. 


4 ft. 
2 in. 


4 ft. 
4 in! 


4 ft. 

7 in. 


4 It. 

10 in. 


5(1. 
lini 






" 3 


Heights in inches 


44 


45 


4fi 


48 


50 


52 


55 


58 


6f 


" 4 


Half-heights in inches 


22 


22^2 


23 


24 


25 


26 


nV 2 


29 


30'/2 


" 5 


Fourth-heights in inches 


1 1 


nil 


ll'/2 


12 


12/2 


13 


\i% 


14/2 


15/4 






" 6 


Eighth-heights in inches 


tf 


5% 


i% 


6 


a 


6/2 


A 


7/4 


1% 


" 7 


Breast sizes 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32' 


" 8 




24 


25" 


26 


26/4 


27 


27'/2 


28 


28 3 /4 


29'/2 


" 9 




bK 


6 5 / 8 


sfi 


7 


1% 


7% 


778 


8/4 


1% 


" IO 


Blade 


M 


nfi 


9% 


M 


9 ?B 


10/4 


in/1 


II 


ii 3 /b 


" II 


Front-shoulder 


9 


i% 


9^2 


9% 


l0/8 


io 5 / 8 


11 


H 3 /8 


i« 


" 12 


Over-shoulder 


12% 


n% 


i3!/ 8 


l3'/2 


14 


14/2 


15^8 


\ti 


15% 


" 13 


Full lengths of sacks 


19 


19% 


I9 3 i 


20'/ 2 


21^ 


22 


23/8 


24/4 


2$ 


"" 14 


Sleeve lengths 


22 


?2 3 /s 


22% 


23^ 


24J4 


25 


26/ / 8 


27/4 


28^4 


" i5 


Vest lengths 


17 


l7'/ 2 


18 


I8 3 i 


l9'/ 2 


20!4 


1\% 


riA 


23^ 







148 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



BOY'S TROUSERS. 



'THOUGH full length trousers are not in frequent use in the smaller sizes herein 
contained, yet we give the quantities for all sizes required for the guidance 
of those who wish to make them, to illustrate juvenile development, and to 
serve as a basis for breeches, which are commonly worn at these ages and which 
will be considered in the following table : 

TABLE 60. 

Line i, ages as per Table 58. 

Line 2, corresponding heights. 

Line 3, heights reduced to inches. 

Line 4, half-heights in inches. 

Line 5, breast sizes. 

Line 6, waist sizes as per Table 59. 

Line 7, corresponding seat sizes. 

Line 8, inseam lengths, which are 2 inches less than the half-height. 

Line 9, rise, gained from \ the total height plus \\ inch. 

Line 10, outside seam, gained by adding the contents of lines 8 and 9. 

Line u, basis for knee sizes, gained from \ height plus \ seat less 7 inches. 

Line 12 the bottom, composed of half-knee plus 4 inches up to 12 years, 
5 inches for 12 years, 6 inches for 13 years and 7 inches for 14 years and 
larger sizes. 

As the average boy's development is not equal each year, the height and 
width quantities do not increase equally, and the length increase is relatively 
unevenly. Should an evenly increasing inseam length be desired, 1 inch may be 
added to each size, beginning as per the table, with 19^ up to the 5-feet-3-inch 
height where 29^ is given, above which point only \ inch is added to each size. 
Such a method is not according to ordinary development, but may be preferred 
by some. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



149 



TABLE 60. 



Line I 


Ages 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 








2 


Heights in feet and inches 


3 ft. 

7 in. 


3 ft. 
8 in. 


3 ft. 
9 in. 


3 ft. 
10 in. 


4 ft. 


4 ft. 
2 in. 


4 ft. 
4 in, 


4 ft. 
7 in. 


4 ft. 
10 in. 


5 ft. 
lin. 


5 ft. 
3 in. 


5ft. 

4 in. 


5 ft. 

5 in. 




3 


Heights in inches 


43 


44 


45 


46 


48 


50 


52 


55 


58 


61 


63 


64 


65 








4 


Half-heights in inches 


2l'/ 2 


22 


22^2 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27/2 


29 


30'/2 


31/i 


32 


32>2 






, 


5 




23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 








6 

7 


Waist sizes 


23 


24 


25 


26 


26/2 


27 


27/2 


28 


28% 


29'/ 2 


30/4 


31 


31% 






■ 


Seat sizes 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


11 


34 


35 


36 






, 


8 


Inseam lengths 


19/2 


20 


20/2 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25'/ 2 


27 


n% 


29/2 


30 


30/2 






' 


9 

IO 


Waist rise 


6% 


7 


A 


7)4 


l'/2 


1% 


8/8 


iVz 


8 3 i 


9 


9 3 /8 


9/2 


9% 


, 


Outside seams 


2B 3 /s 


27 


n% 


28/4 


liA 


30% 


32/s 


34 


37% 


38^ 


38% 


39/2 


40/s 








II 


Bases for knee sizes 


9% 


wK 


1$ 


llJ4 


12 


I2 3 i 


l3'/ 2 


14/2 


isK 


l6 3 /4 


17/4 


17% 


18/4 


■ 


12 


Bases for bottom widths 


S/ 8 


9^8 


9% 


9 5 / 8 


10 


io 3 / 8 


M 3 /4 


13/4 


I4 3 i 


15% 


15% 


15/8 


16/s 



150 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



BOY'S BREECHES. 



F|IMENSTONS for breeches for boys may be gained on the same general plan 
as for trousers; but as breeches are worn before trousers we begin them 
from smaller ages and sizes as below : 

TABLE 61. 

Line i, the ages. 

Line 2, the heights. 

Line 3, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 4, the seat sizes. 

Line 5, the waist sizes. 

Line 6, the inseams, which are gained by one-half of the trousers lengths (as 
given in Line 8 of the preceding table) less 1^- inch. 

Line 7, the rise, which may be gained exactly as per Line 9 of Table 59 ; but 
in this table we have made it \ inch less on account of breeches being worn with- 
out suspenders and therefore are not held up as high as the trousers. 

Line 8, the outseams. 

This gives a fair idea of proportions for boys. The general knowledge we 
have already gained will enable us better to understand them than if the preced- 
ing proportions had not been studied before taking up those of boys. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



151 



TABLE 61. 



Line I 


Ages 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


II 


12 


13 


14 


15 


" 2 


Heights in feet and inches 


3 ft. 
5 in. 


3(t. 
6 in. 


3 ft. 
7 in. 


3 ft. 
8 in. 


3 ft. 
9 in. 


3 ft. 

10 in, 


4 ft. 


4 ft. 
2 in. 


4 ft. 
4 in. 


4 ft. 
7 in. 


4 ft. 
10 in. 


5 11. 
lin. 


" 3 


Half-heights in inches 


20 l / 2 


21 


2l , / 2 


22 


22^2 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27'/ 2 


29 


30^2 


" 4 




21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


2$ 


27 


27'/2 


28 


28% 


29/2 


" 5 


Seat sizes 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


" 6 


Inseam lengths 


1% 


8 


B'/4 


M 


8% 


9 


9/2 


10 


IO/2 


11^4 


12 


13 


" 7 


Waist rise 


6 3 /e 


bK 


1% 


6 3 /4 


6?8 


7 


7/4 


7^ 


7?8 


S'i 


8^2 


9 


" 8 


Outseam lengths 


14/s 


\M 


14% 


15/4 


15% 


16 


1$ 


\i/i 


18% 


\ik 


20'/ 2 


22 



PART III. 



WOMEN'S PROPORTIONS 



154 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



PROPORTIONS FOR WOMAN'S GARMENTS. 



'"TO go as minutely into all of the component parts of the proportions of women's 
measurements as we have gone into men's, would make another volume 
necessary. This we shall not do for two reasons. First, because the study of the 
foregoing rules and tables has made us, in a general way, familiar with propor- 
tions, and we are, therefore, approaching the explanations to follow with a 
general understanding of their value. Secondly, it was not the original purpose 
to touch upon women's proportions in this volume ; but they have been added at 
an expense and an amount of labor apparently disproportionate to the result, 
merely to give a heaping measure to the original plan. 

The rules governing these proportions have been determined from the classic 
statues and an average based on the measures of many individuals. Both 
have furnished their quota toward the accompanying results ; the former toward 
a working principle and the latter for the application of that principle. 

Much interesting detail, such as the general proportions, which are perhaps 
more adapted to art than to tailoring, has been left out in order not to weight the 
subject down with anything superfluous. 



Those who would complicate knowl- 
edge would build a crooked road in- 
stead of a straight one 



156 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



TABLE 62. 

Line i, the average heights in feet and inches. 

Line 2, the same heights reduced to inches. 

Line 3, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 4 would be the half-heights in inches, if the heights continued to 
increase at the same rate above the 5 feet 10 inch height as they do below it. 

Line 5, the first units and fractions of Line 3 up to the 5-feet-io-inch height 
and of Line 4 above it. 

Line 6, the one-fourth-heights of the height quantities given in Lines 1 and 2. 

Line 7, the first units and fractions of the figures in Line 6. 

Line 8, one-eighth-heights of the heights given in Lines 1 and 2. 

Line 9, additions that may be used to gain an increasing breast quantity for 
the smaller sizes, as breast and bust become nearer equal in those sizes. 

The above quantities have been established as working quantities toward the 
application of widths to follow. 

Line 10, the breast sizes by adding Lines 3, 5 and 9. 

Line 11, the bust sizes from 32 to 50, corresponding to the heights given 
above. 

Line 12, the waist sizes, which are gained by adding Lines 6 and 7, dividing 
by 2, and deducting the remainder from Line 11. The result will be the waist 
sizes given in Line 12. 

Example : — The figures in Lines 6 and 7 under the 5 feet 8 inch height are, 
respectively, 17 and 7, which when added make 24, and leave 12 when divided by 
2. Deduct the 12 from 40 in Line n, leaving 28, as per Line r2. 

Line 13, the hip sizes as taken 5 inches below the waist. They are gained by 
adding Lines 7 and 11. 

Line 14, the depths of scye : \ breast on the square plus \ height on the 
fourths of the square plus \ inch. 

Line 15, the blades, which are gained from \ and \ bust. 

Line 16, the front shoulders, which are y 1 ^ of the fourth height plus \ bust 
plus I inch. 

Line 17, the over-shoulder measures: f bust on the square plus \ of one- 
fourth height on the square plus 1 inch. 

Line 18, neck sizes, from \ breast plus 6 inches. 

Line 19, the cuff sizes from \ bust and \ waist. 

Line 20, the elbow widths (quantities that will prove flexible when flesh is 
taken on), gained by \ bust and \ waist. 

Line 21, skirt lengths corresponding to the heights and widths given. 

Line 22, skirt lengths when the waist increases. These lengths give the key 
for skirt lengths for corpulent figures. 1 inch has been added to the length of 
the normal skirt for each inch that the waist has gained on the bust from a 
standard of 12 inches less waist than the bust. This increased length is required 
to go over the curve, instead of a straight line, when flesh is taken on, and as the 
curved line is always the longer, the length thus taken up must be provided for. 

Additional gain means additional length to be provided, and the same basis 
as given above may be used as occasion demands. — 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



157 



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158 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



PROPORTIONS FOR GIRLS. 



T^HIS table is supplementary to the preceding table for adults and might have 
been placed to the left of it, thereby making the two tables continuous. 
It is, however, separated from the larger in order to divide them into the 
classes to which each naturally belongs. The quantities have, in the main, been 
o-ained as explained in Table 62, but some deviations have been made better to 
carry out the average gained from the measures taken of this class of forms. 

TABLE 63. 

Line 1, the ages. 

Line 2, the heights in feet and inches. As growth is not even at the ages 
dealt with, the heights are given on the basis of average development, therefore 
not consecutively. 

Line 3, the heights reduced to inches. 

Line 4, the half-heights in inches. 

Line 5, the one-fourth heights in inches. 

Line 6, the first units of the one-fourth heights in Line 4. 

Line 7, one section, or \ of the heights. 

Line 8, the chest sizes consecutively from 24, including 31. 

Line 9, the waist sizes, which may be gained by deducting the first unit and 
fractions, as per Line 6, from the half-heights of Line 4, but we have held them at 
an even number, which seems to be a fair average. 

Line 10, the hip sizes, gained by adding Lines 6 and 8. 

Lines 11, 12, 13 and 14 may be gained exactly as explained for Lines 14, 15, 
16 and 17 of the previous table, but as the tendency is toward a too rapid decrease 
on account of the decrease of the quantities from which they are gained, we 
have given a slight allowance above those quantities, thereby insuring more ease. 

Line 15, the neck sizes, gained from \ chest plus 6 inches. 

Line 16, the cuff widths, gained from \ chest and \ waist. 

Line 1 7, the elbow widths, gained from \ chest plus \ waist. 

Line 18, short skirt lengths, gained from three sections of height plus 1 inch. 
A long skirt length can be gained as explained for Line 21 of the preceding table. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



159 



TABL.E 63. 



Line I 




G 


7 


8 


9 


10 


II 


12 


13 


" 2 


Heights in feet and inches 


3 ft. 
8 In. 


3 ft. 
9 In. 


3 ft. 
10 In. 


4 tt. 


4 ft. 
2 In. 


4 ft. 

5 In. 


4 ft. 
8 In. 


4 ft. 

10 In. 


" 3 


Heights in inches 


44 


45 


46 


48 


50 


53 


56 


58 


" 4 


Half-heights in inches 


22 


22/2 


23 


24 


25 


26^2 


28 


29 






" S 


Fourth-heights in inches 


II 


ll/i 


11/2 


12 


\1h 


13/4 


14 


l4'/2 


" 6 


First unit of Line 5 


1 


|/4 


1/2 


2 


2/2 


1% 


4 


M 


" 7 


Eighth-heights, or one section 


5'/2 


5% 


5 3 i 


B 


6/i 


1% 


7 


7/4 


" 8 


Chest sizes 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 | 






" 9 


Waist sizes 


22 


22 


22 


22 


22 


22 


22 


22 






" IO 


Hip sizes ' 


25 


26/4 


27'/2 


29 


30'/2 


32K 


34 


35'/ 2 








Depth of scye 


Gft 


G'/s 


6 3 /e 


6!4 


6% 


6 3 /8 


6% 


lYz 






" 12 


Blade 


7 


7% 


1% 


1% 


8/8 


8 7 /JB 


8 3 /4 


9 1 


" 13 


Front-shoulder measure 


8 9/ i6 


8 3 /4 


a'^e 


9/8 


A 


9/2 


11/ 
9/16 


9% 




" H 


Over-shoulder measure 


ll 3 /a 


ll/i 


l2'/ 8 


l2'/2 


12% 


13/4 


13% 


14 






" 15 




12 


12/4 


\ik 


I2 3 i 


13 


itf 


13^2 


l3 3 /i 


" 16 




A 


i% 


rt 


5?8 


6 


b'/« 


6/4 


6 3 /8 


" 17 


Elbow widths 


1V2 


8 3 /4 


9 


9/4 


9'/ 2 


9 3 / 4 


10 


10/4 


" iS 




11% 


I77 8 


\iA 


19 


20'/ 2 


2$ 


22 


22% 



160 CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



SLEEVE LENGTWS FOR WOMEN. 



© LEEVES for women are handled much the same as for men. Some differences 
occur, however, as, for instance, instead of the outstretched arms exceeding 
the height, as for men, they are equal in women. 

This furnishes a new basis to figure from. The angle allowance is 5^ inches, 
instead of 6 inches for men. In other words, the outstretched arms plus 5^ inches 
give the total length to the finger tips. From this deduct J height, to find the 
length to just above the wrist, add to this 1^ inch to reach from the wrist to the 
hand and then add £ inch for the three seams encountered ; the total is the full 
length of the sleeve. 

The reading of the explanations of Table 34 before applying the quantities 
just given, will aid in understanding the detail workings of the following table : 

TABLE 64. 

Line 1, the heights. 
Line 2, bust sizes corresponding. 
Line 3, the outside sleeve lengths by heights. 

Line 4, normal underarm lengths gained from two sections of height plus 
1 inch. 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



161 



0-3 


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CO 
ISO 


en 




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ro 

— -j 


CO 
CO 


CJ> 






ISO 


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ISO CJ1 




CO 


fsO 
CP_ 


CO 

en 


F = 




— J 


ro 

CO 


CO 

Cf) 


-pa CD 




— i_ 


iso 


CO 

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tn Cn 




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CO 


CO 
CO 


en m 






CD 


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CO 


— I cjn 




OB 


CO 

C3 


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c=> 


od en 






Co 

D3\ 


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CO CJi 




CO 


CO 


-p* 


5 en 




Co 

\CO 


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c=> 


-P» 

CO 


POL-- 




co_ 


co 


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-p* 


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CO 


CO 


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cri 


SScr. 




CO 


CO 


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CO 


OO CJI 




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S3 




-p» 

—J 


Jrfo 




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(so 
CO 

^Cn 


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CO 


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3"=S 




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t °CTl 


-p* 

CO 


S^CJ, 




J 


ISO 

cp_ 


CZ> 


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a 

f 

H 
-. 



162 



CARLSTROM'S PROPORTIONS. 



SLEEVE LENGTHS FOR GIRLS. 



C LEEVES for girls are in every way the same as explained in the previous 






table, except that the addition from the wrist to the hand is only J inch. 



TABLE 65. 



Line I 




311. 

em. 


3 It. 
9 in. 


3 it. 
10 in. 


4(1. 


4 It. 
2 In. 


4 H. 

5 In. 


4 ft. 
8 in. 


4 ft. 
10 In. 






" 2 




24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


" 3 


Outseam lengths 


20 l / / 2 


20% 


21/4 


22 


22% 


23% 


25 


2$ 


" 4 




12 


12/4 


I2K 


13 


13 3 /4 


itf 


15 


15/2 



Line 1, the heights. 

Line 2, the chest sizes corresponding. 

Line 3, the outside lengths as explained. 

Line 4, the underarm lengths as explained in the previous table. 



THE END 




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P 152 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 34 3? 30 Depth of£cye g 2468|0 g 24 „ „ 

From Height to Width Points/?^ 5inches. 






i I i I i 



Blade 



B /I 

54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



From rfrrow fo S/'je required 'p/us /Q/'/icfiej 



1 



I I i 



-L 



J_ 



i I ' 



front Shoulder 5 4 5j 52 5I 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 
From Height to Width Points p/us 10 inches. 



''''' 



IM 6 8 I8-3 4 6 8 



54 53 52 5 1 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 



J. 



-L 



J. 



i. 



i I i 



Over Sh o ulder 

From Height to Width Points p/us 10 inches. 



a 



I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IP II £ I 2 3 4 6 6 7 



B 



54 53 52 5 1 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 



35 34 33 32 31 30 



I 



I I I 



' I I 



I 



Upper Shoulder 



I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 II co I 2 3 4 5 6 7 



& 



f From Height to Width Points p/us 20 inches. 



54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 (■ 41 40 39 



J. 



a 

37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 tjOWer 

^^[Sho ulder 



From //rrow 'fo *5'je reuu/rec/ p/us 20 inches. 



Duplicate of scales contained in " Carlstrom's Proportions" (copyrighted). Issued to make it unnecessary to remov< the scales from the hook. 

If it is decided to do away with the additions, cut out each set of scales and paste them as much further apart as the 1 iitions called for on the scales. 




